Burgundy 2023 En Primeur: Domaine J.A. Ferret
We are delighted to make an early offer of the 2023 vintage from benchmark Pouilly-Fuissé producer, Domaine J.A. Ferret.
We tasted some of the wines ourselves in London last month, but the main critics' tasting notes have yet to be released. Availability is very limited and the reputation of Ferret's wines has been rising steadily, with the elevation of several of their cuvées to premiers crus. 2023 is an excellent vintage for whites, so we suggest don't wait for the critics and secure stocks while you can!
A new winemaker joined the domaine last year, Clément Robinet, but as Neal Martin has commented, Robinet appears to be following in the footsteps of his highly-respected predecessor, Audrey Braccini. Under Mme. Ferret in the nineteenth century, the domaine was the original pioneer of single-vineyard Pouilly-Fuissés and the diversity of their cuvées and expression of terroirs makes this estate a must-buy.
We have not yet tasted the newly-named 'Autour de la Roche', formerly known as 'Sous Vergisson' but based on our tasting of 'Clos des Prouges' 'Clos de Jeanne' 1er Cru and 'Tournant de Pouilly' 1er Cru, the Ferret wines have again managed to balance concentration with delicate, complex minerality, balance and elegance. The 2023s have a savoury hazelnut and orchard fruit character that contrasts with the opulence of the '22s and which will appeal to lovers of classic white burgundy.
Offered en primeur, landing in the UK in winter 2025.
Producer Profile
Domaine J.A. Ferret, Pouily-Fuissé
Domaine J.A. Ferret is in the heart of Fuissé itself, with the Ferret family making wine in the village since the 1760s and owning the domaine since 1840. After the Second World War Madame Jeanne Ferret took the decision to bottle the wines at the domaine, rather than selling them to negociants, a bold move at the time. She ran the Ferret for over half a century, well into her eighties, and was joined by her daughter Colette in the 1990s. In 2008 the family sold the estate to Maison Louis Jadot, but it continues to be run as a separate entity. New investment and a brilliant new winemaker signal the intention to raise the game, both at Ferret and for the appellation as a whole.
Audrey Braccini has been the start winemaker here for the last few years, making wines with the kind of mineral complexity usually found in the Côte d'Or, but with an added dimension of Maconnais sunshine lending richness to the wines. She has just left to make wine with her husband at the legendary Clos Rougeard in the Loire and from 2022 Clément Robinet has taken over, with an equally impressive background, coming from Heritiers Comte Lafon.
Ferret's 18 hectares of vines are spread across many of the best sites in the village. When we first visited, Audrey pointed out to us that Pouilly-Fuissé has more diversity of terroirs than any other appellation in Burgundy, but this is not reflected in the way that most of the production is bottled and labelled. There is a long tradition at Ferret of recognising the importance of specific sites and Madame Ferret’s even created her own unofficial classifications of 'Tetes de Cru' and 'Hors Cru Classe' which corresponded (in her eyes) to premier and grand cru. From the fresh, mineral style of "Les Perrieres" and "Tournant de Pouilly" (on limestone soils) to the richness of "Clos des Prouges", the wines exhibit their terroirs beautifully.
After many years of lobbying the authorities and after many complex soil studies, the INAO has authorised a premier cru classification in Pouilly-Fuissés, to appear on labels from the 2020 vintage, with a number of Ferret's crus included. Pouilly-Fuissés first grand cru may take a little longer...but, if and when it does come, it may well be one of Ferret's.
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