Pascal and Laurent Borgeot are among the hardest working winemakers we know in Burgundy. Each year, their reds stand out for their value and for their sturdy, structured style.
This is a no-frills domaine, located in the little-known village of Remigny, in between Santenay and Chassagne. With no appellation of its own, Remigny has an off the beaten track air, which adds to its authenticity. Pascal and Laurent have the robust character of farmers, with Laurent, in particular, focused on the land and the vines. Established in 1903, the brothers are the fourth generation of the family to run the domaine, although they have expanded it greatly since they took over in 1985. They now have 23 hectares of vines, with holdings in Bouzeron, Santenay, Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet. Pascal's daughter Julia is now increasingly involved in the winemaking. The Borgeot's are very well-respected by many of their more famous neighbours, some of whom have sent their children to work with them as stagiaires.
A form of lutte raisonnée is practised in the vineyards, with only organic fertilisers used. The wines are fermented in a combination of temperature-controlled, stainless-steel vats and oak barrels to give complexity while retaining the primary fruit aromas. Laurent uses up to 25% new oak in the village and premier cru-level white wines.
Santenay Rouge is a speciality and the wines from this village are our first port of call for good value but serious Côte-d'Or burgundy. At the southern end of the Côte de Beaune, Santenay is benefiting from climate change and Borgeot's reds have a ripeness and a concentration in recent vintages which remind us of the Côte de Nuits, whilst remaining true to their terroir. The Bourgogne Blanc 'Clos de la Carbonade' is from a walled vineyard in Bouzeron, a monopole for the domaine. This is brilliant value, a 'house' white burgundy for many of customers (and for us too!). The Bourgogne Rouge has bright fruit, but also offers firm tannins and structure which make it a textbook example of red burgundy. The Chassagne Vieilles Vignes and 1er Cru Clos St Jean are also outstanding value.
Laurent Borgeot