Burgundy 2021 En Primeur: Domaine Borgeot, Remigny
Laurent and Pascal Borgeot lived up to their reputation of being the hardest-working growers in Burgundy when we visited this year. Laurent managed simultaneously to pour his 2021s for us whilst intermittently nipping outside to unload a lorry full of glass bottles. There are no frills when visiting this domaine...it's as if they save every ounce of charm to go into the wines themselves. We always come away smiling as a result and this year was no exception.
As elsewhere, the white wine volumes were hardest hit by the frost damage, with just 3 barrels of Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes in 2021, compared with 25 barrels in a normal year! The 1er Cru Clos St Jean, even more restricted than usual (and offered on allocation) stands out for value amongst the other 1er Cru whites we will be offering this year. Clos de la Carbonade was also reduced by a third. As we have come to expect, all three wines were superb, but with quantities so reduced, en primeur will likely be your only chance to secure some this year.
The Borgeot's humble Bourgogne Rouge is from 3 parcels of vines in Santenay, also star in its own right. The 2021 is a different rendition of this wine to the recent 2018, '19 and '20 vintages, but no less likeable, with quite a classical, elegant style. The Santenay Vieilles Vignes is a worthwhile step-up, with a distinctive, earthy nose of beetroot, dark fruit, firm, structured tannins and a dark, spicy cherry core.
The quality we found here in the 2021 vintage is a great testament to Laurent and Pascal's winemaking skill and with such limited availability, we recommend acting early to secure these wines for your cellar.
Offered en primeur, landing autumn 2023.
Producer Profile
Domaine Borgeot, Remigny
Pascal and Laurent Borgeot are among the hardest working winemakers we know in Burgundy. Each year, their reds stand out for their value and for their sturdy, structured style.
This is a no-frills domaine, located in the little-known village of Remigny, in between Santenay and Chassagne. With no appellation of its own, Remigny has an off the beaten track air, which adds to its authenticity. Pascal and Laurent have the robust character of farmers, with Laurent, in particular, focused on the land and the vines. Established in 1903, the brothers are the fourth generation of the family to run the domaine, although they have expanded it greatly since they took over in 1985. They now have 23 hectares of vines, with holdings in Bouzeron, Santenay, Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet. Pascal's daughter Julia is now increasingly involved in the winemaking. The Borgeot's are very well-respected by many of their more famous neighbours, some of whom have sent their children to work with them as stagiaires.
A form of lutte raisonnée is practised in the vineyards, with only organic fertilisers used. The wines are fermented in a combination of temperature-controlled, stainless-steel vats and oak barrels to give complexity while retaining the primary fruit aromas. Laurent uses up to 25% new oak in the village and premier cru-level white wines.
Santenay Rouge is a speciality and the wines from this village are our first port of call for good value but serious Côte-d'Or burgundy. At the southern end of the Côte de Beaune, Santenay is benefiting from climate change and Borgeot's reds have a ripeness and a concentration in recent vintages which remind us of the Côte de Nuits, whilst remaining true to their terroir. The Bourgogne Blanc 'Clos de la Carbonade' is from a walled vineyard in Bouzeron, a monopole for the domaine. This is brilliant value, a 'house' white burgundy for many of customers (and for us too!). The Bourgogne Rouge has bright fruit, but also offers firm tannins and structure which make it a textbook example of red burgundy. The Chassagne Vieilles Vignes and 1er Cru Clos St Jean are also outstanding value.
Laurent Borgeot
| WHITE | 2021 | 5 cases | Borgeot - Chassagne Montrachet Clos St Jean 1er cru | 75cl | £320 per case of 6 | Borgeot Chassagne Montrachet Clos St Jean 1er cru 2021 / 5 cases / 75cl £320 per case of 6 |
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| RED | 2021 | 2 cases | Borgeot - Santenay Rouge Vieilles Vignes | 75cl | £220 per case of 12 | Borgeot Santenay Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2021 / 2 cases / 75cl £220 per case of 12 |
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