Burgundy 2023 En Primeur: Domaine J. A. Ferret
We are delighted to make an early offer of the 2023 vintage from benchmark Pouilly-Fuissé producer, Domaine J.A. Ferret.
We tasted some of the wines ourselves in London last month, but the main critics' tasting notes have yet to be released. Availability is very limited and the reputation of Ferret's wines has been rising steadily, with the elevation of several of their cuvées to premiers crus. 2023 is an excellent vintage for whites, so we suggest don't wait for the critics and secure stocks while you can!
A new winemaker joined the domaine last year, Clément Robinet, but as Neal Martin has commented, Robinet appears to be following in the footsteps of his highly-respected predecessor, Audrey Braccini. Under Mme. Ferret in the nineteenth century, the domaine was the original pioneer of single-vineyard Pouilly-Fuissés and the diversity of their cuvées and expression of terroirs makes this estate a must-buy.
We have not yet tasted the newly-named 'Autour de la Roche', formerly known as 'Sous Vergisson' but based on our tasting of 'Clos des Prouges' 'Clos de Jeanne' 1er Cru and 'Tournant de Pouilly' 1er Cru, the Ferret wines have again managed to balance concentration with delicate, complex minerality, balance and elegance. The 2023s have a savoury hazelnut and orchard fruit character that contrasts with the opulence of the '22s and which will appeal to lovers of classic white burgundy.
Offered en primeur, landing in the UK in winter 2025.
Producer Profile
Domaine J.A Ferret, Pouilly-Fuissé
Domaine J.A. Ferret is in the heart of Fuissé itself, with the Ferret family making wine in the village since the 1760s and owning the domaine since 1840. After the Second World War Madame Jeanne Ferret took the decision to bottle the wines at the domaine, rather than selling them to negociants, a bold move at the time. She ran the Ferret for over half a century, well into her eighties, and was joined by her daughter Colette in the 1990s. In 2008 the family sold the estate to Maison Louis Jadot, but it continues to be run as a separate entity. New investment and a brilliant new winemaker signal the intention to raise the game, both at Ferret and for the appellation as a whole.
Audrey Braccini has been the start winemaker here for the last few years, making wines with the kind of mineral complexity usually found in the Côte d'Or, but with an added dimension of Maconnais sunshine lending richness to the wines. She has just left to make wine with her husband at the legendary Clos Rougeard in the Loire and from 2022 Clément Robinet has taken over, with an equally impressive background, coming from Heritiers Comte Lafon.
Ferret's 18 hectares of vines are spread across many of the best sites in the village. When we first visited, Audrey pointed out to us that Pouilly-Fuissé has more diversity of terroirs than any other appellation in Burgundy, but this is not reflected in the way that most of the production is bottled and labelled. There is a long tradition at Ferret of recognising the importance of specific sites and Madame Ferret’s even created her own unofficial classifications of 'Tetes de Cru' and 'Hors Cru Classe' which corresponded (in her eyes) to premier and grand cru. From the fresh, mineral style of "Les Perrieres" and "Tournant de Pouilly" (on limestone soils) to the richness of "Clos des Prouges", the wines exhibit their terroirs beautifully.
After many years of lobbying the authorities and after many complex soil studies, the INAO has authorised a premier cru classification in Pouilly-Fuissés, to appear on labels from the 2020 vintage, with a number of Ferret's crus included. Pouilly-Fuissés first grand cru may take a little longer...but, if and when it does come, it may well be one of Ferret's.
| WHITE | 2023 | Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly Fuissé | 75cl | £165 per case of 6 | Domaine J.A. Ferret Pouilly Fuissé 2023 / / 75cl £165 per case of 6 |
IB | |||||
Tasting Notes"This wine starts life in a mix of tank and barrel. The tank component, which includes the vines on schistous soils in one part of Fuissé, shows some green tints to the colour, with an attractive fruit both lively and juicy. There is a definite bitterness. Still, youthful promise. The barrel component, from clay-limestone soils includes some 1er Cru grapes as a counterpoint to the schist, and a bit of fruit from Vergisson. Pale lemon in colour without the green, a slightly richer and softer nose, more evidently Pouilly-Fuissé. Fresh plum fruit, balanced and delicious. My assessment may be over cautious. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. 89-90 points." Jasper Morris MW |
|||||||||||
| WHITE | 2023 | Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly-Fuissé "Autour de la Roche" | 75cl | £165 per case of 6 | Domaine J.A. Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé "Autour de la Roche" 2023 / / 75cl £165 per case of 6 |
IB | |||||
Tasting Notes"Autour de la Roche', formerly known as 'Sous Vergisson' is a blend of grapes grown in the best terroirs located around the Vergisson outcrop. The average age of the vines that go into cuvee is around 40 years. As is typical in Fuissé, the geology is diverse, with some stony soils but, in the main, soils derived from Triassic sandstones and clay, as well as shallower soils based on hard limestones with marine fossils. " J.A. Ferret |
|||||||||||
| WHITE | 2023 | Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly-Fuissé "Clos des Prouges" Tête de Cru | 75cl | £240 per case of 6 | Domaine J.A. Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé "Clos des Prouges" Tête de Cru 2023 / / 75cl £240 per case of 6 |
IB | |||||
Tasting NotesSituated right in the centre of the village of Fuissé, this Clos is just over two "hectares" in size and is planted on a shallow slope that faces east. Although a small parcel of vines was planted in 2003, most of the vineyard dates back to 1956, and is therefore more than 60 years old, making it one of the oldest owned by the domaine. The soil is derived from limestone-rich marls deposited during the upper Bathonian. The 2023 has an intense, fine backbone of acidity, spice, pear and lime-fruit freshness running through it, with excellent minerality providing length on the finish. RKL |
|||||||||||
| WHITE | 2023 | Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly-Fuissé "Le Clos de Jeanne" 1er Cru | 75cl | £240 per case of 6 | Domaine J.A. Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé "Le Clos de Jeanne" 1er Cru 2023 / / 75cl £240 per case of 6 |
IB | |||||
Tasting Notes"Formerly known as Le Clos. A lime green touch, with a subtly perfumed bouquet. A mix of fresh plum fruit with some more austere notes, extra length. At the moment less flesh than the 2022 though this may change with, longer elevage. A fine and balanced persistent finish. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Apr 2024. 90-92 points." Jasper Morris MW |
|||||||||||
| WHITE | 2023 | Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly-Fuissé "Tournant de Pouilly" 1er Cru | 75cl | £340 per case of 6 | Domaine J.A. Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé "Tournant de Pouilly" 1er Cru 2023 / / 75cl £340 per case of 6 |
IB | |||||
Tasting NotesBased in the northern part of Fuissé, just on the borders of the hamlet of Pouilly, the Tournant de Pouilly is a vineyard of one hectare in area, split between two parcels, planted on a gentle slope that faces north-east. This historic vineyard is a part of 1er Cru "Les Reisses". Planted by Jean-Alfred Ferret in 1995, 1963 and 1964, the vines from this parcel are, on average, a little bit older than 60 years old, one of the oldest vineyards owned by the Domaine.------This deep clay loam soil contains lots of limestone, but little in the way of stones. It is derived from the pale loams of the Dogger. Fermentations and ageing take place in casks: 25% of new cask, 75% of cask from 1 to 3 wines for 10 months. The ageing continued in stainless steel tanks, always with all their lees for another 9 months. Bottled just like the Ménétrières, at the very last days of March 2022. Always a bit austere and shy at first glance, it is undoubtedly the most "chic" of the selections with its chalky touch and its fresh and persistent finish." J.A. Ferret------This has the beautiful texture on the palate that seems to characterise the '23s, not the rich glycerin kind as seen in the '22s, but a more elegant, silkiness. It balances richness with a chalky minerality and the longest finish of this flight of wines. RKL |
|||||||||||
