Burgundy 2022 En Primeur: Domaine Borgeot, Remigny
We are very pleased to offer Domaine Borgeot's 2022 burgundies for sale en primeur.
Visiting Laurent and Pascal Borgeot to taste their 2022s was a reminder of just how extraordinarily skilled the winemakers are at some of these small family domaines. They produce red and white burgundy equal to bottles from other growers that sell for two or three times the price. We are delighted to share our notes on this new vintage with you.
We met a slightly jaded Laurent on the day after the Hospice de Beaune auction, when everyone goes out and celebrates. Luckily, the wines spoke for themselves! A theme this year, as at other domaines, was the use of slightly more new oak, due to the need to lay in new barrels for sizeable 2022 and 2023 vintages, particularly after the tiny 2021 harvest.
Happily, the fruit concentration in the '22s is more than able to balance this slight increase in oak influence. The whites showed wonderful ripeness, balance and elegance, and the reds were power-packed with fruit and supple tannins, yet still balanced.
The domaine's single-vineyard 'Clos Carbonade' is a staple white burgundy for us and this is one of the best tastings from barrel we can remember. We were so impressed by the whites that, this year, we have added the Santenay Blanc 'Comme Dessus' lieu-dit to our offer from Borgeot, a great Village-level all-rounder and an ideal partner to the red Santenay Vieilles Vignes.
The Chassagnes Vieilles Vignes and 'Clos St Jean' 1er Cru stood out for their power and concentration, without any compromise to their balance and elegance. The Clos St Jean in particular will be long-lived and has great potential for development.
Offered en primeur, landing autumn 2024.
Producer Profile
Domaine Borgeot, Remigny
Pascal and Laurent Borgeot are among the hardest working winemakers we know in Burgundy. Each year, their reds stand out for their value and for their sturdy, structured style.
This is a no-frills domaine, located in the little-known village of Remigny, in between Santenay and Chassagne. With no appellation of its own, Remigny has an off the beaten track air, which adds to its authenticity. Pascal and Laurent have the robust character of farmers, with Laurent, in particular, focused on the land and the vines. Established in 1903, the brothers are the fourth generation of the family to run the domaine, although they have expanded it greatly since they took over in 1985. They now have 23 hectares of vines, with holdings in Bouzeron, Santenay, Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet. Pascal's daughter Julia is now increasingly involved in the winemaking. The Borgeot's are very well-respected by many of their more famous neighbours, some of whom have sent their children to work with them as stagiaires.
A form of lutte raisonnée is practised in the vineyards, with only organic fertilisers used. The wines are fermented in a combination of temperature-controlled, stainless-steel vats and oak barrels to give complexity while retaining the primary fruit aromas. Laurent uses up to 25% new oak in the village and premier cru-level white wines.
Santenay Rouge is a speciality and the wines from this village are our first port of call for good value but serious Côte-d'Or burgundy. At the southern end of the Côte de Beaune, Santenay is benefiting from climate change and Borgeot's reds have a ripeness and a concentration in recent vintages which remind us of the Côte de Nuits, whilst remaining true to their terroir. The Bourgogne Blanc 'Clos de la Carbonade' is from a walled vineyard in Bouzeron, a monopole for the domaine. This is brilliant value, a 'house' white burgundy for many of customers (and for us too!). The Bourgogne Rouge has bright fruit, but also offers firm tannins and structure which make it a textbook example of red burgundy. The Chassagne Vieilles Vignes and 1er Cru Clos St Jean are also outstanding value.
Laurent Borgeot
| RED | 2022 | 3 cases | Hudelot Baillet - Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits | 75cl | £110 per case of 6 | Hudelot Baillet Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits 2022 / 3 cases / 75cl £110 per case of 6 |
IB | ||||
Tasting Notes"The 2022 Bourgogne Rouge Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, picked around ten days later than other cuvées, had been bottled just before my visit. Well-defined on the nose, the fruit is slightly darker than the Bourgogne Rouge. The palate is medium-bodied with a sapid entry and fine tannins. It's juicy with a touch of spice toward the finish. 90 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com |
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| RED | 2022 | 1 case | Hudelot Baillet - Chambolle Musigny Les Charmes 1er cru | 75cl | £420 per case of 6 | Hudelot Baillet Chambolle Musigny Les Charmes 1er cru 2022 / 1 case / 75cl £420 per case of 6 |
IB | ||||
Tasting Notes"The 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes 1er Cru comes from two barrels and is aged in 25% new aak. This is much more complex and nuanced on the nose than the Vieilles Vignes: very focused with ebullient red fruit laced with violet. The palate is medium-bodied with good density on the entry. It's quite structured for a Chambolle with some firm tannins on the finish, but sufficient fruit keeps it balanced and poised. 91-93 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com |
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| RED | 2022 | 10 cases | Hudelot Baillet - Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes | 75cl | £260 per case of 6 | Hudelot Baillet Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes 2022 / 10 cases / 75cl £260 per case of 6 |
IB | ||||
Tasting Notes"The 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes comes from six parcels from around the appellation. There is a touch of reduction on the nose, dark berry fruit mixed with iris flower and a touch of pencil box. A little introspective at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with a candied entry, quite sweet with a lot of sucrosity. Maybe that detracts from its complexity towards the finish, which tapers when you want it to fan out. It's not bad, but it needs to gain some flesh in the coming months. 89-91 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com |
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