Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur
At the end of April, we tasted several hundred wines from the 2023 vintage, visited thirty-five top châteaux and, most importantly, discussed the wines with dozens of châteaux owners and winemakers. As is invariably the case, by the time we came home our understanding of the vintage was completely different from our expectations.
2023 was the hottest autumn and the second-hottest year on record in France, but not in Bordeaux, with its Atlantic influences. Peak temperatures were lower than in '22 and rainfall was much higher. The widely reported issues with mildew were not evident in the wines we tasted. Top estates have the resources to combat the issue or to reduce yields where necessary.
We started our tastings in Pessac-Léognan, with Daniel Cathiard of Smith Haut Lafitte, still a bit giddy from hosting a visit by King Charles' during the harvest. The ripeness and aromatic intensity of the Cabernet Sauvignon here was echoed next at Haut-Bailly, where we met with Veronique Saunders and her Technical Director Gabriel Vialard.
Very quickly a theme emerged, of perfectly balanced, elegant wines with moderate alcohol (usually 13-13.5% on the left bank) and fresh fruit, wrapped up with firm, structured tannins, giving many of the wines a thoughtful, austere character. The word 'Atlantic' seems to sum up their style, especially when you factor in the pronounced mineral and saline notes we found at many estates.
In Pomerol and St-Emilion we met some beautiful wines at L'Evangile, Cheval Blanc, Figeac, Le Pin, Canon, Ausone and Le Tertre Rôtebeouf, with Vieux Château Certan producing another show-stopper. In some cases, the reduced Merlot crop had led to increased intensity, but more often the theme of elegance and freshness continued. L'Eglise Clinet was definitely a contender for wine of the vintage, a defining moment for winemaker Noemie Durantou.
Tasting in St-Estèphe and Pauillac, we found tremendous expressions of terroir, far more so than in the more homogenous 2022 vintage, with endless variations on crushed rock and mineral notes in St-Estèphe. Particular highlights were Phelan-Segur (with a superb lunch!), Cos d'Estournel and Calon-Segur. Montrose epitomized the direction of winemaking in the region, with fruit for the 2023 coming solely from vines on 'Terrace 4' gravel, the terroir that forms the heart of the estate (and many other top Médoc vineyards), producing a more linear, less broad-shouldered wine than in previous vintages. The sense of terroir was almost as evident in Pauillac, with highlights including Pontet-Canet, Pichon-Lalande, Clerc-Milon and Duhart-Milon.
The theme of terroir continued in Margaux, with the silkiest of tannins and wonderful elegance at Palmer and Margaux, both of which have produced potentially perfect wines. We also found numerous beautiful wines in St-Julien, although this was perhaps the most heterogeneous commune. Léoville Las Cases, already released with a huge 40% reduction on the '22, is one of the success stories, with the other Léovilles not far behind, and Beychevelle has surely made one of its best wines in years. As for Ducru-Beaucaillou, Xavier Borie has demonstrated his maverick tendencies once again, producing an inexplicably opulent wine which nevertheless has superb balance.
For us, 2023 is a very good vintage, but the best wines reach greatness. Quality is increasingly variable at Cru Bourgeois level and below, where estates may have lacked resources to respond to mildew. The key words from our notes are terroir, elegance, balance, moderate alcohol and 'Atlantic'. Precision and purity also feature heavily, but this is more a feature of modern winemaking using precision viticulture and vinification in small vats. Quality has improved immeasurably, even in just the last decade. Contemporary winemaking techniques also mean that the wines will be drinking earlier than in the past, but will also age for several decades.
With many wines releasing with 20-40% discounts making them at or even below 2019 prices, we think there is every reason to add them to your cellar.
It looks like the releases will be very early this year, with some big names due out in late April and many others in May.
The 2023 Growing Season in Bordeaux
Our summary of the growing season in 2023 is taken from an excellent report prepared by the Oenology Research Unit of the University of Bordeaux[i] for the UGC.
- Winter 2022/3 was cool, with low sunshine and adequate rainfall, but lower than in previous hot years like 2022 and ’20.
- The cool winter meant bud break was not too early, preventing frost damage.
- A humid spring led to widespread mildew, a major challenge, especially for Merlot; but the impact on both left and right banks varied, from major to negligible, causing a disparity in yields between different estates.
- May was sunny, warm, and dry, with good vine growth and a very even flowering. Estates not hit by mildew had the promise of very good yields.
- June to mid-August was slightly warmer than average but a bit dull; dry but with regular storms.
- Period to 15 August full of contrasts - slightly warmer than average, a bit dull, dry, but with regular storms
- From 16 August, a heatwave arrived. Unusually, the vines responded by stopping their vegetative growth (conserving moisture and nutrients) and put their energy into fruit ripening. Ripening conditions were excellent, with the exception of young vines on well-drained soils or grapes over-exposed to sunshine.
- Merlot harvest began in the first week of September. Heavy rain on 20 September - brought forward the Cabernet harvest at some estates. Other estates chose to wait until after the rain (which was less heavy than forecast).
- An "Indian summer" gave plenty of time to pick the last red grapes without fear of rot.
- The white wine harvest was excellent for both dry and sweet white wines. The cooler start to the summer produced excellent acidity levels. In Sauternes, alternating wet/dry spells were ideal for botrytis, which developed earlier than in previous vintages. Warm dry weather in October allowed for repeated ‘tries’ in the vineyard.
[i] Prof. Laurence Geny, Elodie Guittard, Dr. Valérie Lavigne and Prof. Axel Marchal Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences of Bordeaux University, Oenology Research Unit, ‘The 2023 vintage in Bordeaux’
| WHITE | 2023 | Château Coutet | 75cl | £360 per case of 12 | Château Coutet 2023 / / 75cl £360 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"A Barsac with dried-apple, apricot and spice character. The botrytis comes through with a healthy and clean nature to it. Medium-bodied and medium-sweet with a spicy finish. 94-95 points" jamessuckling.com------"The 2023 Coutet has a tightly-wound bouquet that demands more coaxing than its peers. It typically already possesses laser-sharp focus and is less flamboyant than fellow Barsacs, underpinned and sharpened by its limestone soils. The palate is well balanced with intense botrytised fruit, lightly spiced dried honey and orange rind notes, just a hint of apricot in the background, stretching out on the finish that lingers on the tongue. I am not sure it is the best Coutet in recent years, but it is certainly a very fine contribution to the vintage that should age well in bottle. 94-96 points." Neal Martin, Vinous------"Beautiful aromatics, fresh acidity that picks things up from the first moment, crisp citrus, mango, pineapple, grated ginger, and a twist of bitter aniseed on the finish. Richly concentrated, reflecting small yields, but once again a wine that shows the huge potential of this style in the 2023 vintage. Harvest between September 20 and October 11. 96 points" janeanson.com |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Château Coutet | Half bottle | £395 per case of 24 | Château Coutet 2023 / / Half bottle £395 per case of 24 |
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| RED | 2023 | Château d'Armailhac | 75cl | £204 per case of 6 | Château d'Armailhac 2023 / / 75cl £204 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 d'Armailhac is a plump, juicy wine that very much captures the generous side of the year. Succulent red plum, spice, new leather, rose petal and pomegranate are nicely amplified. Armailhac can have a slight edginess in its tannin profile, but today, that is not especially evident. This is a very sexy, almost opulent d'Armailhac, despite having the most Cabernet Sauvignon ever in the blend. 2028-2043. 90-92 points." Antonio Galloni, Vinous, Apr '24------"The 2023 d'Armailhac was picked from September 7 to 30 and aged in 50% new oak. It contains the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon to date. Its tightly wound bouquet demands encouragement from the glass, perhaps just missing the panache that elevated the previous vintage. You could argue that this seems more "serious. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and a firm backbone. It's a little pepperier than previous vintages, closing with a streamlined finish. Give this two or three years in bottle. 2028-2043. 91-93 points." Neal Martin, Apr '24------"The 2023 d'Armailhac is an attractive effort, bursting with aromas of cherries, raspberries, licorice and cigar wrapper. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and succulent, with a pretty core of fruit, sweet powdery tannins and lively acids, it's a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot—which is a rather high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon for this address. 92-93 points." (WK) Wine Advocate------"There’s a powdery and open texture to this red. Full-bodied and layered with a pretty and weightless texture. Blackcurrants and blueberries and an orange-peel undertone. Velvety texture at the end. 70% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot, 13% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot. 93-94 points" jamessuckling.com------"High Cabernet, as is the story of the vintage on the Left Bank. A wine that also continues the new story of Armailhac following serious investment in vineyards and cellar, and technical director Lucie Lauilhé. Bright and vivid from the first moment, layered cassis, crushed mint, liqourice root, crushed rocks, an excellently precise, structed and textured Armailhac. Love it. Harvest September 7 to 30. 80ha in production, 50% new oak barrels for ageing. 94 points" janeanson.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château de Fieuzal | 75cl | £240 per case of 12 | Château de Fieuzal 2023 / / 75cl £240 per case of 12 |
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| RED | 2023 | Château d'Issan | 75cl | £225 per case of 6 | Château d'Issan 2023 / / 75cl £225 per case of 6 |
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Tasting NotesThe 2023 d’Issan was picked from September 18 to October 2. It was cropped at 30hL/ha, lower than usual due to mildew pressure and less rain in August, causing hydric stress during the summer heat wave, especially in the Merlot vines. It was harvested a little later than the other cuvées to benefit from the Indian summer, September 20, and matured in 50% new oak. It has a very pure bouquet with black cherries, cassis and blueberry fruit, though I feel that other recent vintages have shown a touch more complexity. The palate is well balanced and cohesive with fine and quite edgy tannins. There is an impressive symmetry to this d'Issan with a very poised and quite persistent finish. It improves with aeration and all the time, the aromatics seem to muster more energy (hence, I raised my score). One to watch. 91-93 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The 2023 D'Issan shows excellent potential, unfurling in the glass with aromas of dark berries, cassis, pen ink and white flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, velvety and enveloping palate that's rich, fleshy and charming, with lively acids, good depth at the core and a long, sapid finish. It's a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and the balance Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. 93-95 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"First time not to have Malbec in the main Issan wine since the purchase of the neighbouring estate Pontac Lynch in 2020. 50% new oak, 32hl/h yield. Fine tannins, well balanced, inky and powerful but with oyster shell salinity. Chalky tanins with touch of En Primeur asterity, well constructed, full of cocoa bean, cassis, liqourice root, classical balance. 30hl/h yield. 95 points" janeanson.com------"The purity of the fruit is really wonderful here, with blackcurrants, orange peel and raspberries. Aromatic. Full body, chewy tannins and a juicy finish. But it remains linear and vivid. The quality of the tannins and the powdery texture are really alluring. Silky. And so precise. 70% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot, 2.5% cabernet franc and 2.5% petit verdot. 13.83% alcohol. 3.66 pH. 96-97 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Château Doisy Daene | 75cl | £372 per case of 12 | Château Doisy Daene 2023 / / 75cl £372 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"There’s a refined focus and beauty to this, with spice and honey character. Medium-bodied, sweet and poised. Flavorful at the end, in an elegant way, with density and tension. 93-94 points" jamessuckling.com------"Pale gold with vibrant edging, starts with concentrated and intense clove spices, luscious apricot fruit, opening to show juicy, sculpted slivers of steel and lime juice. A return to form for this excellent Barsac wine after the succulent but unbalanced 2022. Great stuff from this legendary Dubourdieu property, although once again the yields are extremely low and the character is more concentrated than you find in vintages like 2021. Ageing starts with 10 months in oak barrels, followed by 9 months in stainless steel tank before bottling. 95 points" janeanson.com------"The 2023 Doisy-Daëne, a blend of 80% Sémillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc, takes time to unfurl on the nose. Notes of lemon curd, dried peach and a touch of marmalade are all nicely defined, developing subtle pithy elements with aeration. The palate is just wonderful. Very harmonious with perfectly judged acidity, it’s extremely pure with a tensile finish. This is Barsac in full flight. It will be outstanding once bottled. Bravo! 95-97 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Ducru Beaucaillou | 75cl | £744 per case of 6 | Château Ducru Beaucaillou 2023 / / 75cl £744 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Ducru-Beaucaillou, matured in 100% new oak for a planned 18 months, has a less forceful bouquet than the 2022 last year and, consequently, shows more refinement and poise. The scents don't come barging out of the blocks, but they creep up on you. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh entry. Showing moderate depth, it’s quite linear in style and grippy. A faint touch of bell pepper emerges on the classically styled finish that reminds me of some of the old vintages of Ducru-Beaucaillou. This is the strictest vintage I have encountered in some time. 94-96 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Glass-staining violet. A serious Ducru, delivered with precision and balance, with plenty of concentration and a slow, long build, layered, fine and sappy tannins. Proof again that this is a great Cabernet year in this corner of Bordeaux, less velvet concentration than the 2022 Ducru perhaps, but more finesse and packed full of nuance, and a saline mouthwatering finish. 41hl/h yield, 100% new oak, with long seasoning of up to five years, nine different coopers. 96 points" janeanson.com------"This has aromas of blackberries and blackcurrant, as well as graphite and flint. Some gunpowder. It’s full-bodied with extremely refined tannins, a creamy character and al-dente fruit at the finish. Crunchy, succulent and linear. Mineral edge to it, like licking a stone. Energetic. 83% cabernet sauvignon and 17% merlot. 96-97 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Duhart Milon | 75cl | £342 per case of 6 | Château Duhart Milon 2023 / / 75cl £342 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon (picked late, between September 25 and October 3) and 20% Merlot, the 2023 Duhart-Milon has turned out beautifully, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cassis, cherries and dark berries mingled with hints of mint, cedar and spice box. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, it's deep and concentrated, with an ample core of cool but ripe fruit, sweet tannins and a long, penetrating finish. 92-94 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"The 2023 Duhart-Milon was picked September 7 to October 3 and contains 15% pressed wine, matured in 50% new oak. It has a much more backward bouquet than the Moulin, displaying well-defined yet tightly coiled graphite-infused black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins that belie the backbone of this Pauillac. That graphite element is accentuated in the mouth and controls the classic finish that could only come from this appellation. This is excellent, but patience is required. 93-95 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"So much pure graphite and lead pencil here, together with blackcurrant and iodine aromas and flavors. Mediumbodied with creamy and velvety tannins that are very polished. Cedar and some tobacco box. Deep and layered. Al-dente tannins. Precise. 94-95 points" jamessuckling.com------"Inky plum, far deeper in texture and intensity than the Moulin de Duhart (in contrast to 2022, when both 1st and 2nd wines were intensely coloured). Classical Duhart on the attack, reserved and a little subdued, then in comes the waves of cassis, liqourice root, spiced plum, ink, tobacco and cigar box. High Cabernet in the blend, and it suits the style and character of Duhart. Has a ton of ageing potential, classical styled with precision, fully showcasing the enjoyment of 2023 in the right spots. Around 65% first wine, 45hl/h yield, 15% of press wine. Harvest September 7 to October 3. A buy. 95 points" janeanson.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Durfort Vivens | 75cl | £478 per case of 12 | Château Durfort Vivens 2023 / / 75cl £478 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Durfort-Vivens is a very pretty, understated wine. In 2023, Durfort is marked by a brighter profile than usual: red fruit, blood orange and flowers. Medium in body and persistent, with good energy and very fine balance, the 2023 is promising. Even though it’s showing a touch of oak at this stage, this layered and sumptuous offering is showing well. Drink 2031-2053. 92-95 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Durfort Vivens is once again dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, which represents 92% of the blend. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of minty cassis, plums and berries mingled with hints of pencil shavings and violets, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with good concentration, sweet tannins and a long, penetrating finish. With a pH of 3.66 and 13.7% alcohol, it's a resounding success. 94-95 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"Wonderfully fragrant aromatics that climb through the palate, this has the juice and power that 2023 does so well in the right hads, majoring on squid ink and cassis, with clear expansion through the palate, liqourice, sage, saffron, pomegrante, orange zest and salt-scrape. Harvest September 11 to October 4, 35hl/h yield, 3.66ph, 66% new oak, 33% amphoras for ageing. Right up there with the best of Margaux. 95 points" janeanson.com------"This has very fresh, lively and almost al-dente fruit. It’s mouthwatering and juicy. Medium-to full-bodied, refined and seamless. Long, with a firm backbone of tannins that are very fine and polished. Crunchy and structured. Chewy at the end. 92% cabernet sauvignon and 8% merlot. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. 95-96 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Figeac | 75cl | £894 per case of 6 | Château Figeac 2023 / / 75cl £894 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Château Figeac is Merlot-dominated but includes 32% Cabernet Franc and 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the élevage all in new French oak. Classic Figeac purple fruits, tobacco, leafy herbs, violets, and graphite all emerge on the nose, and it hits the palate with medium to full body, a remarkable sense of purity and precision, fine-grained tannins, and a gorgeous finish. Hitting 13.5% alcohol and a pH of 3.68, it's a beautiful wine in the vintage that shows the absolute class of this château today. 94-97 points" Jebdunnuck.com------"The 2023 Figeac is gorgeous. Seamless and vibrant, with captivating elegance, this is an absolute beauty. What I admire most is its exceptional balance. Everything is in the right place. Time in the glass brings out hints of gravel, dried herbs, licorice, tobacco and cedar that add dimension. Although it is early, Figeac is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintage. 95-98 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"A brilliant classic in the making, the 2023 Figeac unwinds in the glass with aromas of cassis and mulberry mingled with notions of iris, cigar wrapper, pencil shavings, burning embers and spices. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, it's deep and concentrated, with an enveloping core of fruit that's framed by powdery tannins and lively acids, concluding with a broad, atypically mineral finish. It's a blend of 41% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc and 27% Cabernet Sauvignon that attained 13.5% alcohol. 96-98 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"A blend of 41% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc, and 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2023 Figeac has a pH of 3.68 and it is deep garnet-purple in color. It prances out of the glass with out-going scents of black raspberries and fresh blackcurrants, opening out to reveal an undercurrent of pencil shavings, rose bud tea, iron ore, and wood smoke. The medium-bodied palate delivers a rock-solid structure of firm, grainy tannins and beautiful tension supporting the taut, muscular black fruits, finishing with a long-lingering mineral firework display. 96-98 points" Lisa Perotti-Brown, The Wine Independent------"he 2023 Figeac was cropped at 45hL/ha from September 6 until October 5, one of the longest harvest periods ever. It matured in 100% new oak, as usual. My samples included the 5% vin de presse. This has a very perfumed bouquet: red fruit rather than black, iris flower rather than violet, light sous-bois and tobacco scents deriving from the Cabernets. The palate is medium-bodied, and the Cabernets really "sing" on the entry. Black fruit mixes with graphite and light tobacco notes, surging with fresh acidity and real brightness, or what the French call éclat. There’s gentle grip here—classic Figeac from start to finish, with a subtle marine influence toward the close. This will be a wonderful Saint-Émilion that ranks amongst the best wines of the vintage. Chapeau! 96-98 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The density and finesse to this is terrific, offering blackberry, dark chocolate, walnut and hazelnut, as well as currant and sandalwood. Orange peel, too. Full-bodied and compact with a superb core of thick, velvet-textured tannins and a juicy finish. Extremely long. 41% merlot, 32% cabernet franc and 27% cabernet sauvignon. 97-98 points" jamessuckling.com------"Fragrant floral aromatics straight off the bat, peony and violet, and a vibrant juiciness that travels through the palate. Savoury dark fruit character, with flint and textural interest, full of Figeac finesse. 130th vintage of the Manoncourt family at Figeac, and the first vintage where they knew they were Premier Grand Cru Classé A from the start of the season, as it was announced in September 2022. 130mm of rain lower than average over the growing season here, allowing a long slow harvest from September 6 to October 5, 45hl/h yield. 98 points" janeanson.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Giscours | 75cl | £246 per case of 6 | Château Giscours 2023 / / 75cl £246 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Giscours was picked between September 6 and October 6, a month-long harvest at an average of 31hL/ha, lower than usual due to the loss of Merlot. This has a higher percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (71%). No sulfites were added until fermentation, and the élevage includes 50% new oak. This sample was taken from a foudre that represents a combination of barrels; I tasted it three times thereafter. It has a classically styled bouquet, less open and concentrated than the 2022, but well-defined with graphite-tinged black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a bright entry, a crisp line of acidity and fresh black fruit, with a noticeable marine/briny influence that guides the finish. This is not a powerful Giscours and doesn't quite have the persistence of the previous vintage, but I admire its linearity and classicism. 90-92 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Giscours is one of the real successes of the vintage, unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries, cherries and red fruits mingled with hints of undergrowth, violets and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it's seamless and concentrated, with a fleshy core of fruit framed by ripe, powdery tannins and succulent acids, concluding with a long, broad finish. It's a blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc. 94-96 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"This really expands in the mouth, with tight tannins that are polished and velvety. The fruit shows depth and purity. Medium to full body. Juicy center-palate. Like the ripe fruit in the center palate. The quality of the tannins in this rises to a new level. The tannins pull you through the wine. 71% cabernet sauvignon, 7% cabernet franc and the rest merlot. 96-97 points" winespectator.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Gloria | 75cl | £275 per case of 12 | Château Gloria 2023 / / 75cl £275 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Gloria presents a deep purple hue. It has a succinct bouquet with black cherries, red plum and pronounced floral aromas that emanate from the Petit Verdot. The palate is medium-bodied with bright blackberry and raspberry fruit, quite a minerally Gloria with a more linear, stricter finish than the 2022, as you would expect. There’s also fine salinity here. This is a classy Gloria that just misses the panache of recent vintages (and of the 2023 Saint-Pierre). 90-92 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Love this inky depths of the plummy fruits and deep rich chcolate notes, great quality with depths and balance. Last year of organic conversion. 93 points" janeanson.com------"Blackberries and blueberries with stone and sandalwood undertones. It’s medium- to full-bodied with integrated tannins that are polished and refined. Long finish. Solid and rather muscular. Could move up a notch. 93-94 points" jamessuckling.com------"Cassis, violets, spicy wood, espresso, and a kiss of graphite all emerge from the 2023 Château Gloria, an incredibly pure, medium to full-bodied, ripe, balanced Saint-Julien. It shows the pure, elegant style of the vintage, has ripe tannins, plenty of mid-palate depth, and a great finish. This château hasn't put a foot wrong in some time, and they certainly did well in 2023. 92-94 points" Jebdunnuck.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Grand Puy Ducasse | 75cl | £288 per case of 12 | Château Grand Puy Ducasse 2023 / / 75cl £288 per case of 12 |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Grand Puy Lacoste | 75cl | £273 per case of 6 | Château Grand Puy Lacoste 2023 / / 75cl £273 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Grand Puy Lacoste was picked September 11 to 28 at 48hL/ha and matured in 75% new oak. It has a classic "GPL" bouquet with blackberry, pencil box and light marine scents, obviously not as powerful as the previous vintage, yet in typical style, beautifully defined and focused. Just a touch of cracked black pepper surfaces with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle but insistent grip, just a light bitter edge lending tension and nerve. I perceive good depth here, but this is not a powerhouse of a Pauillac (is GPL ever?). It fans out toward the finish whilst maintaining control. There’s an impressive linearity to this wine, and thus I suspect it will require less bottle-age compared to recent vintages. 93-95 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Aromas of cassis, cigar wrapper, pencil shavings and violets introduce the 2023 Grand-Puy-Lacoste, a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and supple wine that's seamless and sensual, with good depth at the core, beautifully integrated tannins and a lively, charming profile. It's a blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon and 23% Merlot that was picked between September 11-28. 93-95 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"Beautiful purity and freshness to the blackcurrants and blackberries with subtle notes of cedar and graphite. Medium- to full-bodied. So polished and silky, almost weightless. It’s very long. 77% cabernet sauvignon and 23% merlot. 95-96 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Gruaud Larose | 75cl | £358 per case of 6 | Château Gruaud Larose 2023 / / 75cl £358 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Gruaud Larose was picked from September 11 to October 3 at 42hL/ha and matured in 95% new oak with 15% vin de presse. There was no saignée. There is a large difference between the Sarget and the Grand Vin this year: There’s much more complexity and purity here. Layers of blackberry, cedar and floral scents surface in the glass, all very composed with beautifully integrated oak (perhaps better than previous vintages). The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins—quite crisp and commendably saline, which really comes through toward the finish. This is a classic Gruaud Larose that confirms the ongoing improvement at this estate. 93-95 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Vibrant colour that speaks of a great En Primeur wine, with the bright acidities that seem typical in these appellations of 2023. More subdued than some sibling St Juliens, this has a serious feel, with the Cabernets very much on the savoury, stately side, sinewy and with touches of raspberry leaf and peony, fragrant and floral. Plenty of ageing capacity ahead, but don't feel that you will have to wait too long to begin drinking. Old school and delicous. The Cabernet levels are above 80% as has been true for the last few years, a result of the vines coming in to the right age after extensive replanting. 95 points" janeanson.co------"Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2023 Gruaud Larose leaps with vibrant notes of cassis, fresh blackberries, and mulberries giving way to nuances of tapenade, iris, pencil shavings, and iron ore. The palate is light-bodied and airy, with beautiful poise and soft silky tannins, delivering a lively burst of mineral and red berry notes on the finish. This is nicely done! The blend is 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.5% Merlot, and 2.5% Cabernet Franc, with pH 3.80. 94-96 points" Lisa Perotti-Brown, The Wine Independent------"The 2023 Gruaud Larose is a powerhouse. Rich and ample, with striking depth, the 2023 offers notable resonance from start to finish. Black cherry, blackberry, licorice and spice fill out the layers nicely. The 2023 is a big, potent Gruaud Larose that will need a number of years to be at its best. This is a terrific example of the vintage at its finest. 2033 - 2063 94-96 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Château Guiraud | 75cl | £480 per case of 12 | Château Guiraud 2023 / / 75cl £480 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Guiraud, now made by former Yquem winemaker Sandrine Garbay, has a rather reticent nose at first, opening with orange pith and pear aromas. It just needs a bit more intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with a tangy opening. It’s a little spicier than its peers—marmalade and stem ginger, with more peachiness toward the finish. It feels harmonious and poised, but I would wait until the aromatics open, so give it four to five years after bottling. 92-94 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Vivid gold in colour, laced with white peach juice, grilled pear, stone fruits, lime juice, opulent but with sculpted lift and zest, this extends outwards and upwards through the palate, capturing the pleasure of 2023 sweet wines in Bordeaux. Has spice and character, gorgeously expressive even now, and will age with ease. Sandrine Garbay, long time winemaker of Yquem, is director at this 128ha estate, that has been farmed organically since 2011. Harvest began on September 27 and continued through to October 13. 96 points" janeanson.com------"You really see the class and botrytis character here with clarity and focus. Notes of spice, mushroom powder, subtle apricot and honey. It’s medium-bodied, fresh and bright with nice sweetness at the end. A modern and precise Sauternes. 96-97 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Haut Bages Liberal | 75cl | £306 per case of 12 | Château Haut Bages Liberal 2023 / / 75cl £306 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"Intense and crunchy blue and black fruits, delivering tons of Pauillac character, reserved and well judged, juicy cassis, liqourice root, slate and cocoa bean. Delicous, a lovely vintage of this wine. Harvest September 12 to 30. 53hl/h yield, just a little higher than the already high yield of Pauillac in this vintage, no mildew. 3.48ph, 40% new oak, with the rest of one year old, pls concrete eggs and amphora. Claire Villars-Lurton owner. 93 points" janeanson.com------"The 2023 Haut-Bages Libéral was picked at 53hL/ha between September 12 and 30, matured for 16 months in 40% new oak. The nose was quite backward when I tasted it, though Claire Villars-Lurton commented that it had just closed down the week that I visited. It will be more open once in bottle. The palate is more indicative: clean, fresh, linear and nicely focused, with more grip than the Ferrière. Touches of graphite linger on the finish. This is very classically styled, and there is nothing wrong with that-a wine for Pauillac purists and those seeking wines with less sulfites. 92-94 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Haut-Bages-Libéral is very promising, bursting with aromas of dark berries, cassis, pencil shavings and violets, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and suave palate with an enveloping core of fruit, lively acids typical of this limestone terroir, and sweet, powdery tannins. It's a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot with a low pH of 3.48. 93-95 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"The 2023 Haut-Bages Libéral is fabulous. Deep, layered and exquisitely beautiful, the 2023 bristles with tension. Dark red cherry, plum, spice, leather, menthol and licorice grace a wine of depth, richness and sensuality. It's a terrific effort from proprietor Claire Villars-Lurton. 94-96 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"A very pure and beautiful HBL with blackcurrant and mineral notes, like crushed stones, as well as a vivid freshness. Purity and brightness in the center-palate, with essence of cassis and a crunchy minerality from part of the vineyard in limestone. 86% cabernet sauvignon and 14% merlot. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. 95-96 points" jamessuckling.com------"The 2023 Château Haut-Bages Liberal is gorgeous, with classic Pauillac cassis, cedar, and graphite notes as well as a beautiful sense of minerality. More medium to full-bodied on the palate, it has a round, supple, yet focused mouthfeel, classy tannins, and a great finish. It's a stunning bottle of wine that will have some early accessibility yet also age gracefully. 94-96+ points" Jebdunnuck.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Haut Bailly | 75cl | £540 per case of 6 | Château Haut Bailly 2023 / / 75cl £540 per case of 6 |
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Tasting NotesA blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon (harvested from the 20th to the 29th of September), 34% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot, the 2023 Haut-Bailly offers up aromas of mulberries, cassis, dark wild berries, pencil lead, licorice and spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, concentrated and rich palate that is both layered and seamless, its deep mid-palate animated by lively acids, concluding with long, mineral, penetrating finish. Although it displays a darker, more brooding profile character than in previous years, it remains highly representative of its terroir and will benefit from some patience. It's being matured in 50% new oak. 94-96 points" Yohan Castaing, RobertParker.com------"The 2023 Haut-Bailly was picked from September 11 to 29 at 40.5hL/ha. It is being raised in 50% new oak for a planned 14 months, plus another three in vats. Véronique Sanders told me that there is 6% vin de presse in the blend this year. This has a beguiling bouquet that instantly switches on a metaphorical neon sign that announces you are in the presence of a very serious wine. Extremely pure and delineated, the nose presents aromas of blackberry mixed with wild strawberry, cedar and light sous-bois. It's much more classical in style compared to the 2022. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins that frame the blackberry, raspberry, cedar and graphite-infused fruit. It boasts more grip and persistency on the finish than its peers, with a residual subtle pinch of black pepper. This ranks as one of the standout wines in Pessac-Léognan, perhaps in Bordeaux itself. Outstanding. 96-98 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"I am thinking about the purity of fruit here, with blackcurrants, cassis and lead pencil. There's an underlying character of mineral and flint. The palate is dense, focused and precise, with very fine tannins that are ultra-fine and layered and go vertically down the palate. Everything is in the right place. So much polish and a svelte nature. Then hints of hazelnut and walnut to the refined texture. Sophisticated. 58% cabernet sauvignon, 34% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 4% petit verdot. 97-98 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Haut Batailley | 75cl | £432 per case of 12 | Château Haut Batailley 2023 / / 75cl £432 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Haut-Batailley is a blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot that increasingly resembles its stablemate Lynch Bages in style. Offering up aromas of dark berries, plums, pencil shavings and creamy new oak, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with plenty of generously extracted, youthfully chewy tannin and a long, lusty finish. 91-93 points." (WK) Wine Advocate, Apr '24------"The 2023 Haut Batailley was picked from 14 September and matured in 65% new oak. It has a harmonious and focused bouquet with blackberry, graphite and iris flower scents. The oak here is neatly integrated. It's actually stylistically not dissimilar to the Mouton Rothschild! The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannins—quite rounded in the mouth, but there is backbone here. A subtle white pepper note mixes with pencil shavings on the classically styled finish, completing this refined Pauillac. 2028-2050. 91-93 points." Neal Martin, Vinous, Apr '24------"This shows structure and focus, with creamy, powdery tannins and a very pretty, silky texture. Medium to full body with a solid line of tannins running through the wine. Blackberries and currants with a hint of crushed stone. Better than 2022? 94-95 points." James Suckling, Apr '24------"The 2023 Haut-Batailley is another impressive wine from this Chateau. There's plenty of the typical dark fruit and overall breadth that is such a signature, but the tannins show greater finesse than in some prior years—a very positive evolution that continues here. Black cherry, plum, lavender, cloves, leather and licorice are all beautifully amplified. The 2023 marks another major step forward for Haut-Batailley. 2028-2043. 93-96 points." Antonio Galloni, Vinous, Apr '24"The 2023 Haut-Batailley is a blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot that increasingly resembles its stablemate Lynch Bages in style. Offering up aromas of dark berries, plums, pencil shavings and creamy new oak, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with plenty of generously extracted, youthfully chewy tannin and a long, lusty finish. 91-93 points." (WK) Wine Advocate, Apr '24------"The 2023 Haut Batailley was picked from 14 September and matured in 65% new oak. It has a harmonious and focused bouquet with blackberry, graphite and iris flower scents. The oak here is neatly integrated. It's actually stylistically not dissimilar to the Mouton Rothschild! The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannins—quite rounded in the mouth, but there is backbone here. A subtle white pepper note mixes with pencil shavings on the classically styled finish, completing this refined Pauillac. 2028-2050. 91-93 points." Neal Martin, Vinous, Apr '24------"This shows structure and focus, with creamy, powdery tannins and a very pretty, silky texture. Medium to full body with a solid line of tannins running through the wine. Blackberries and currants with a hint of crushed stone. Better than 2022? 94-95 points." James Suckling, Apr '24------"The 2023 Haut-Batailley is another impressive wine from this Chateau. There's plenty of the typical dark fruit and overall breadth that is such a signature, but the tannins show greater finesse than in some prior years—a very positive evolution that continues here. Black cherry, plum, lavender, cloves, leather and licorice are all beautifully amplified. The 2023 marks another major step forward for Haut-Batailley. 2028-2043. 93-96 points." Antonio Galloni, Vinous, Apr '24 |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Haut Brion | 75cl | £1,890 per case of 6 | Château Haut Brion 2023 / / 75cl £1,890 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Haut-Brion exhibits a more Cabernet-inflected personality than the richer 2022, offering up a deep but youthfully reserved bouquet of dark wild berries, licorice, smoke and pencil lead mingled with notions of cigar wrapper, nicely integrated new oak and spices. Full-bodied, deep and velvety, it’s layered and concentrated, with a deep core of fruit structured around abundant but velvety tannins, concluding with a long, controlled finish. Somewhat reminiscent of the estate's successful 2006, it's a blend of 52.3% Merlot, 38.6% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9.1% Cabernet Franc. 95-97 points" Yohan Castaing, RobertParker.com------"The 2023 Haut-Brion was picked at the same time as the La Mission Haut-Brion, albeit the secateurs sheathed one day later, on October 6. The nose is less immediate than the La Mission and the fruit is a little darker: blackcurrant, juniper, hints of black olive and a light cedar scent. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grip and tension. This has superb energy, presenting a crescendo of flavors toward a complex and persistent finish that lingers in the mouth. There is real pedigree to this First Growth, and it will certainly give 30 to 40 years of drinking pleasure. 96-98 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"This is tight, yet so upright and proper, with a vertical line of fine tannin that runs true and deep. It’s medium- to full-bodied with an exquisite texture and a long, structured finish. 52.3% merlot, 38.6% cabernet sauvignon and 9.1% cabernet franc. 98-99 points" jamessuckling.com------"This is an exceptional Haut-Brion, offering juice and elegant balance alongside classically structured layers, generous but restrained, sense of architecture and building blocks of a truly great Left Bank wine. Rippling with sinewy muscles, juicy and controlled, packed with cocoa bean, espresso, liouqorice root, but none of these flavours dominate, knitted together, with a vertical lift. 100% new oak, Jean-Philippe Delmas director, Jean-Philippe Masclef technical director, no outside consultant. 98-100 points" janeanson.com |
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