Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur
At the end of April, we tasted several hundred wines from the 2023 vintage, visited thirty-five top châteaux and, most importantly, discussed the wines with dozens of châteaux owners and winemakers. As is invariably the case, by the time we came home our understanding of the vintage was completely different from our expectations.
2023 was the hottest autumn and the second-hottest year on record in France, but not in Bordeaux, with its Atlantic influences. Peak temperatures were lower than in '22 and rainfall was much higher. The widely reported issues with mildew were not evident in the wines we tasted. Top estates have the resources to combat the issue or to reduce yields where necessary.
We started our tastings in Pessac-Léognan, with Daniel Cathiard of Smith Haut Lafitte, still a bit giddy from hosting a visit by King Charles' during the harvest. The ripeness and aromatic intensity of the Cabernet Sauvignon here was echoed next at Haut-Bailly, where we met with Veronique Saunders and her Technical Director Gabriel Vialard.
Very quickly a theme emerged, of perfectly balanced, elegant wines with moderate alcohol (usually 13-13.5% on the left bank) and fresh fruit, wrapped up with firm, structured tannins, giving many of the wines a thoughtful, austere character. The word 'Atlantic' seems to sum up their style, especially when you factor in the pronounced mineral and saline notes we found at many estates.
In Pomerol and St-Emilion we met some beautiful wines at L'Evangile, Cheval Blanc, Figeac, Le Pin, Canon, Ausone and Le Tertre Rôtebeouf, with Vieux Château Certan producing another show-stopper. In some cases, the reduced Merlot crop had led to increased intensity, but more often the theme of elegance and freshness continued. L'Eglise Clinet was definitely a contender for wine of the vintage, a defining moment for winemaker Noemie Durantou.
Tasting in St-Estèphe and Pauillac, we found tremendous expressions of terroir, far more so than in the more homogenous 2022 vintage, with endless variations on crushed rock and mineral notes in St-Estèphe. Particular highlights were Phelan-Segur (with a superb lunch!), Cos d'Estournel and Calon-Segur. Montrose epitomized the direction of winemaking in the region, with fruit for the 2023 coming solely from vines on 'Terrace 4' gravel, the terroir that forms the heart of the estate (and many other top Médoc vineyards), producing a more linear, less broad-shouldered wine than in previous vintages. The sense of terroir was almost as evident in Pauillac, with highlights including Pontet-Canet, Pichon-Lalande, Clerc-Milon and Duhart-Milon.
The theme of terroir continued in Margaux, with the silkiest of tannins and wonderful elegance at Palmer and Margaux, both of which have produced potentially perfect wines. We also found numerous beautiful wines in St-Julien, although this was perhaps the most heterogeneous commune. Léoville Las Cases, already released with a huge 40% reduction on the '22, is one of the success stories, with the other Léovilles not far behind, and Beychevelle has surely made one of its best wines in years. As for Ducru-Beaucaillou, Xavier Borie has demonstrated his maverick tendencies once again, producing an inexplicably opulent wine which nevertheless has superb balance.
For us, 2023 is a very good vintage, but the best wines reach greatness. Quality is increasingly variable at Cru Bourgeois level and below, where estates may have lacked resources to respond to mildew. The key words from our notes are terroir, elegance, balance, moderate alcohol and 'Atlantic'. Precision and purity also feature heavily, but this is more a feature of modern winemaking using precision viticulture and vinification in small vats. Quality has improved immeasurably, even in just the last decade. Contemporary winemaking techniques also mean that the wines will be drinking earlier than in the past, but will also age for several decades.
With many wines releasing with 20-40% discounts making them at or even below 2019 prices, we think there is every reason to add them to your cellar.
It looks like the releases will be very early this year, with some big names due out in late April and many others in May.
The 2023 Growing Season in Bordeaux
Our summary of the growing season in 2023 is taken from an excellent report prepared by the Oenology Research Unit of the University of Bordeaux[i] for the UGC.
- Winter 2022/3 was cool, with low sunshine and adequate rainfall, but lower than in previous hot years like 2022 and ’20.
- The cool winter meant bud break was not too early, preventing frost damage.
- A humid spring led to widespread mildew, a major challenge, especially for Merlot; but the impact on both left and right banks varied, from major to negligible, causing a disparity in yields between different estates.
- May was sunny, warm, and dry, with good vine growth and a very even flowering. Estates not hit by mildew had the promise of very good yields.
- June to mid-August was slightly warmer than average but a bit dull; dry but with regular storms.
- Period to 15 August full of contrasts - slightly warmer than average, a bit dull, dry, but with regular storms
- From 16 August, a heatwave arrived. Unusually, the vines responded by stopping their vegetative growth (conserving moisture and nutrients) and put their energy into fruit ripening. Ripening conditions were excellent, with the exception of young vines on well-drained soils or grapes over-exposed to sunshine.
- Merlot harvest began in the first week of September. Heavy rain on 20 September - brought forward the Cabernet harvest at some estates. Other estates chose to wait until after the rain (which was less heavy than forecast).
- An "Indian summer" gave plenty of time to pick the last red grapes without fear of rot.
- The white wine harvest was excellent for both dry and sweet white wines. The cooler start to the summer produced excellent acidity levels. In Sauternes, alternating wet/dry spells were ideal for botrytis, which developed earlier than in previous vintages. Warm dry weather in October allowed for repeated ‘tries’ in the vineyard.
[i] Prof. Laurence Geny, Elodie Guittard, Dr. Valérie Lavigne and Prof. Axel Marchal Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences of Bordeaux University, Oenology Research Unit, ‘The 2023 vintage in Bordeaux’
| RED | 2023 | Château Les Carmes Haut Brion | 75cl | £456 per case of 6 | Château Les Carmes Haut Brion 2023 / / 75cl £456 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is increasingly a wine of seamlessness. Whereas the various components were once easily discernible, today Carmes is most often a wine of total beauty. The 2023 is a bit shy, especially in its aromatics. In other words, a pretty big departure from so many other recent vintages that have been far showier at this stage. Technical Director Guillaume Pouthier explains that he plans to give the 2023 longer aging, around 24-26 months, so he approached vinification and the early part of aging in a more reductive style than in the past. As always, Les Carmes is marked by its strong presence of Cabernet Franc and use of whole clusters, but as mentioned above, those signatures are less immediately evident than they once were. Les Carmes has been one of Bordeaux's stars over the last few years. I can't wait to see how the 2023 turns out. 2035-2073. 94-96 points." Antonio Galloni, Vinous, Apr '24------"Elderflower and peony aromatics, stunning inky plum colour that is very much a signature of Carmes, where it looks so enticing and ripe visually, and then on the palate you feel this constrasting vibrant lift and drinkablity. Back to the signature squid ink flavour that is the key marker of ripe Cabernet in the vintage, and here the grippy slate texture slows everything slows, slowly humming through the palate. Has a sappy, drinkablity, with crushed rose petals and salted cracker salinity. 60% whole cluster, harvest September 11 to 25. 3.6ph. Distinctive, intense, one for Carmes lovers to celebrate. 96 points." Jane Anson, Apr '24------"A blend of 50% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Merlot, Les Carmes Haut-Brion 2023 has a pH of 3.62. It was fermented with 60% whole bunches and it is aging in 70% new oak barrels, 20% new oak vats of 18 hl, and 10% amphorae. It has an opaque purple-black color and needs a little swirling and coaxing to bring out fabulously pure, well-defined notes of juicy black cherries, blackcurrant pastilles, ripe juicy blackberries, and licorice, leading to hints of tar, peonies, wet slate, and black olives, with a touch of Sichuan pepper. The light to medium-bodied palate is airy and refreshing, with a solid backbone of very fine-grained, prancing tannins and bold freshness supporting the pristine black fruit flavors, finishing long and minerally. I had to spend a good 15 minutes with this wine to allow it to grow: it is incredibly tight to begin but expands to become something powerful. A beguiling 2023 with fully ripe black fruit characters and a paradoxical airiness, it really makes your head spin in the best possible way! 96-98 points." Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, The Wine Independent, May '24------"Guillaume Pouthier and his team have once again crafted one of Bordeaux's most unique and characterful wines. Revealing aromas of mulberries and raspberries mingled with notions of vine smoke, orange zest, rose petals and spices, the 2023 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and concentrated, with a powerful, vibrant and complete mid-palate, concluding with a long, ethereal and mouthwateringly saline finish. Sensual, suave and seamless, its beautifully refined tannins are, analytically, more abundant than even those of the 2022 vintage, yet they are so brilliantly integrated as to be near-imperceptible. This blend of 50% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot is crafted for longevity, though its refined structure will make it surprisingly approachable at an early age. It's maturing 70% in new oak barrels, 20% in 18-hectoliter foudres and 10% in amphorae. A creditable yield of 50 hectoliters per hectare represents a decided agronomic success in what was a challenging growing season. 97-99 points." Yohan Castaing, Wine Advocate, Apr '24------"This is a fantastic wine and very, very exciting, with purity and brightness to the floral, spicy and blackberry notes. It’s full and deep with agility and weightless. You feel the greatness in this. The winemaker says this is more concentrated and structured than the 2022. Lightly salty. 60% whole-berry fermentation. 50% cabernet franc, 30% cabernet sauvignon and 20% merlot. From organically grown grapes. 98-99 points." James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com, April 2024 |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Les Cruzelles | 75cl | £193 per case of 12 | Château Les Cruzelles 2023 / / 75cl £193 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Les Cruzelles initially presents a slightly oaky aroma, which transitions to a more floral essence upon aeration. Then it evokes aromas of dark wild berries, spices and mulberries. Medium-bodied, round and charming, it has velvety tannins and a dense, elegant mid-palate, with a long, rich and fruity finish. It's a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc matured in 55% new oak. 90-92 points" Yohan Castaing, RobertParker.com------"The 2023 Les Cruzelles is the same blend as last year. Though it includes fruit that went into La Chenade in 2022, the volume of Merlot was higher, so it remains 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. When Noemie Durantou tasted through the tanks, she found it easy to pick out the wines from Les Cruzelles. Harvested between September 11 and 18 and matured in 52% new oak, this has a delineated and focused bouquet. A hint of incense infuses the black fruit, while a subtle citric element tucks in underneath. The palate is wonderful, certainly more complex and mineral-driven than the La Chenade, possessing gentle grip and perfectly pitched acidity. it fans out with chutzpah on the peppery finish. Excellent. 91-93 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"A vintage where the gap between Cruzelles and La Chenade is wide, and even on the nose it is clear that there are more depths and density to this wine. Love the texture, the depth of raspberry and damson fruits, shot through with black tea, sage and fennel. This is really a brilliant Cruzelles, 55% new oak. Harvest September 1 to 18. 42hl/h yield. Noëmie Durantou winemaker. 93 points" janeanson.com------"The 2023 Les Cruzelles is a potent, deep wine. The 2023 has all the Cabernet Francs from the Lalande-de-Pomerol estate blended with Merlots that were particularly abundant. Pretty floral and savory notes from the Franc give this mid-weight, dynamic, vibrant Lalande-de-Pomerol tons of charm. I especially admire its energy. Readers will want to give this a few years in bottle. 2028-2043 91-94 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"This is one of the best young Lalande de Pomerols I have had. It is very deep and complex on the palate, with pure fruit, spice and chocolate. Lovely tannins, too. 80% merlot and 20% cabernet sauvignon. 94-95 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château L'Evangile | 75cl | £948 per case of 6 | Château L'Evangile 2023 / / 75cl £948 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Wafting from the glass with deep aromas of dark berries, spices, licorice and petals, framed by a sweet patina of new oak, the 2023 L'Evangile is medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with a textural attack that segues into a supple, integrated core that's framed by sweet, powdery tannins. It's a blend of 78% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Franc and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon, checking in at 13.5% alcohol, that was harvested between September 4 and 28. 93-95 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"The 2023 L'Évangile was picked from September 4 to 28 at 42hL/ha, which is the highest for many years. Matured in 50% new oak (including 15 foudres) and 8% in amphoras (my sample only from used barrels), this has a very floral and precise bouquet with dark red fruit, blueberry, hints of blood orange and light sous-bois scents. It's very L'Evangile. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins. Crisp and precise, there’s fine tension toward the finish with a lingering black pepper note. This is a lovely L'Évangile that deserves five or six years in bottle. It will be worth the wait. 94-96 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"A fascinating exercise in terroir, as this shows the same alcohol as the Blason, but the density, fruit character and even the IPT (tannin) count are very different. You see the impact of clay soils in the building of the powerful architecture and the plush damson and black cherry fruits. There is density but tenderness to the tannins, with grilled caramel that gives a beautiful Pomerol signature. Violet floral edging arrives towards the finish, as things open up, and this is an impressive L'Evangile that can age with ease. 42hl/h yield, a record in recent years here. Certified organic since 2021. Great stuff from technical director Juliette Couderc. 96 points" janeanson.com------"A fine line of tannins runs through this medium- to fullbodied wine. Chocolate, walnut and lead pencil on very fine tannins. Classy and focused, providing elegance with strength. Tight at the end. 78% merlot, 21% cabernet franc and 1% cabernet sauvignon. 96-97 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Lilian Ladouys | 75cl | £144 per case of 12 | Château Lilian Ladouys 2023 / / 75cl £144 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"After four Merlot-dominant vintages, the 2023 Lilian Ladouys, with 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, reflects what will be the new norm for this estate as restructured parcels return to production. Offering up aromas of dark berries, lilac and licorice, it's medium-bodied, fleshy and suave, with a charming, supple profile and attractive purity and precision. Some 20% of the blend is maturing in larger 400-liter barrels. 91-93 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"A crunchy wine with blackcurrant, blueberry and crushedstone aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, creamy and polished. 57% cabernet sauvignon, 37% merlot, 5% petit verdot and 1% cabernet franc. 92-93 points" jamessuckling.com------"Juicy black fruits, concentrated without being overdone, well judged in its balance and drinkability, with plenty of firm St Estèphe tannic architecture and a liqourice root signoff. 400l barrels for ageing, 30% new oak. Previously a Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, but they have now stepped back from the ranking. Last year of organic conversion, to be certified in 2024, with an impressive 50hl/h yield. Give it three or four years after bottling to fully soften. 93 points" janeanson.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Lynch Bages | 75cl | £420 per case of 6 | Château Lynch Bages 2023 / / 75cl £420 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Lynch-Bages takes some time to really settle, so I gave it 5-10 minutes in the glass. On the nose, glossy black fruit mixes with touches of cassis, graphite, violets and blood orange, perhaps demonstrating more horsepower than I anticipated. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, saturated tannins. There is a lovely symmetry to this Pauillac (not unlike Latour), armed with a cashmere texture and plenty of backbone on the finish, even though I would not describe it as a "grippy" Lynch-Bages. There’s plenty of graphite character on the aftertaste. Excellent. 93-95 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"As usual one of the chunkier, broader-shouldered wines of the Médoc, the 2023 Lynch-Bages exhibits aromas of dark berries and cassis mingled with pencil shavings, licorice and pipe tobacco, framed by creamy new oak. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, it's deep, concentrated and generously extracted, with plenty of youthfully chewy tannin to carry it along in the cellar. The 2023 is a blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. 93-95 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"Blackberry, black cherry, crushed stone and graphite. Lead pencil, too. It’s full-bodied with juicy, chewy tannins. Vertical and layered with lovely length. Quite plush. Chewy tannins at the end. Cabernet sauvignon driven. Showing excellent potential. 97-98 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Malescot St Exupery | 75cl | £390 per case of 12 | Château Malescot St Exupery 2023 / / 75cl £390 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Malescot Saint Exupéry was cropped at 38hL/ha, picked a day later than the previous year. Lea Zuger told me that they now use six foudres installed in November, meaning there is 60% new oak—less than other vintages. Barrel-maturation will be 14 to 16 months. Whereas in 2022, nearly all the estate’s fruit went into the Grand Vin, this year it represents 75% of the volume. Displaying blackberry and briar on the nose, this demands some coaxing from the glass. There’s just a light, confit-like aroma in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine structure, slightly powdery tannins, modest weight and noticeably fresh acidity and salinity, the latter especially prominent toward the finish. More classically hewn compared to the 2022, this will require five or six years in bottle. Classy. 92-94 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"One of the most suave, classy vintages from this estate in some years, the 2023 Malescot St. Exupery is a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. Wafting from the glass with aromas of cherries, berries, licorice and pencil shavings, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and succulent, with good depth at the core, supple tannins and a harmonious, integrated profile. Part of the blend is maturing in foudre. 93-95 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"This has a very deep and beautiful palate with cherries, chocolate, hazelnut and orange peel. Pretty blackcurrants and blue berries, too. Medium body. The finish has gorgeous al-dente fruit at the end and is always subtle. Open tannins. A blend of 58% cabernet sauvignon, 37% merlot, and 5% petit verdot. 96-97 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Margaux | 75cl | £2,160 per case of 6 | Château Margaux 2023 / / 75cl £2,160 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Château Margaux shows considerable promise, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cassis, violets, spring flowers and sweet tobacco, framed by a deft touch of new oak. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it's taut, concentrated and classically structured, with sweet, refined tannins and lively acids, concluding with a long, mouthwatering finish. It's a blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot that attained 13% alcohol. 95-97 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"Vibrant peony and ruby red colour, this hums with movement and energy through the palate, a complex bloom of lavendar and white rose flowers, fresh and dense at the same time. Classical Margaux, with the savoury quality of the best wines of the year, a ton of fine tannins with a reserved sculpted architecture. The drinkability of this vintage is such a welcome return, and this is exceptionally good quality, and a real pleasure to taste. Superb winemaking from Philippe Bascaules. 41hl/h yield (compared to 25hl/h last year), 41% of the production in this 1st wine. 98 points" janeanson.com------"The 2023 Chateau Margaux, accounting for 41% of this year's crop, is deep garnet-purple in color. A little shy to begin, it needs some swirling before notes of black cherries, blackcurrant pastilles, and anise emerge from the glass, leading to suggestions of fragrant soil, lilacs, and cardamom with a touch of iron ore. The medium-bodied palate is elegantly crafted, with fabulous tension creating an exhilarating sense of energy in the mouth, offset by firm fine-grained tannins to support the vibrant red and black berry layers, finishing long and perfumed. So fragrant and graceful, this could only be Chateau Margaux! The blend is 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot, with pH 3.60. "There is a little more Cabernet Franc this year. More and more has been making it into the First Wine. We have been grafting over some vines to Cabernet Franc and planting more." 97-99 points" Lisa Perotti-Brown, The Wine Independent------"The 2023 Château Margaux, which contains 15% vin de presse, is quintessential Château Margaux. It immediately blossoms in the glass with irresistible crushed violets on the nose, instantly demanding attention—you will gladly give it. Exquisitely defined and very focused with supremely well integrated oak, this is blessed with laser-like precision. The palate is silky smooth on the entry, perhaps a little feistier than expected thanks to a liberal sprinkling of black pepper. Quite structured (like the Pavillon Rouge) and gentle, you can almost overlook its grip. It finishes with a concentrated, graphite-tinged finish that lingers long in the mouth. This First Growth will require ten years in bottle to really show what it is capable of. 97-99 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Château Margaux is fabulous. Sensual, silky and exceptionally polished, the 2023 Château Margaux is shaping up to be a classic. Seamless, silky tannins wrap around a core of dark red/purplish fruit. Hints of spice, new leather, menthol, licorice and rose petal fill out the glass. There's a bit of new oak peeking through today, but that won't be an issue in a few years' time. Only Bordeaux can produce wines that offer so much flavor intensity at a low alcohols. Margaux is the least showy of the First Growths, but it is often the most refined. The 2023 is sublime. 97-100 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"The aromas in this young Margaux are so primary, reminding me of grape must fermenting in the vat, then turning to perfumes and flowers. Violets and roses. Full-bodied but it comes across as so agile and bright, with vivid acidity that makes the wine crunchy and linear. As Alexis, one of the owners of Margaux said, this really shows the DNA of the estate. Weightless. One of the wines of the vintage. 3.6 pH. Blend of 89% cabernet sauvignon, 5% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot. 99-100 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Château Margaux - Pavillon Blanc du Margaux | 75cl | £1,440 per case of 6 | Château Margaux Pavillon Blanc du Margaux 2023 / / 75cl £1,440 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Pavillon Blanc was picked from August 23 to 30 during the heat wave, so the fruit was picked only in the morning. The yield clocked in at 37hL/ha. It has a crisp nose with green apples, nettle and grass clippings, perhaps not as complex as I expected. The palate is well balanced with touches of melon and orange rind on the entry. Modest in depth and quite fresh with a touch of lemongrass, it is a fine and comparatively opulent Pavillon Blanc, even if I would not place it on the mantelpiece with the great vintages in recent years. 88-90 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Pavillon Blanc is quite powerful in this vintage, marked by a combination of creamy, textured fruit, bright acids and an almost phenolic feel that adds pseudo-tannic structure. I imagine the 2023 will need a few years in bottle. Pavillon Blanc is usually more immediate and racier, but the 2023 looks like more of a long-distance runner. Lemon confit, almond and white flowers unfurl in the glass. 2025-2035 92-94 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Pavillon Blanc from Château Margaux, harvested during the morning hours of the August 23-30 heatwave, possesses a deep, complex bouquet of spring flowers, lemon oil, ripe orchard fruits, lemongrass and sweet gooseberries, followed by a medium to full-bodied, round and concentrated palate that's animated by lively acids, concluding with a long, taut, delicately phenolic finish. This bottling amounts to only 45% of the entire crop, the rest being relegated to a second wine. 93-95 points" Yohan Castaing, RobertParker.com------"The 2023 Pavillon Blanc du Chateau Margaux comes bounding out of the glass with exuberant notes of fresh grapefruit, pineapple, and white peaches leading to hints of honeysuckle, orange blossom, and coriander seed with a waft of yuzu. The medium-bodied palate has vivacious citrus and tropical fruit flavors with a racy backbone and long chalky finish. This is delicious! The yield was 37 hl/ha and the pH 3.15. 94-96 points" Lisa Perotti-Brown, The Wine Independent------"White peach flesh on the opening gives an opulent start that quickly narrows inwards to flint and steel. An exceptional white wine, with sculpted charm, showcasing citrus, lime zest, green apple, anis and sage. Harvest August 23 to 30, yields 37hl/h compared to 15h/h in 2022. 96 points" janeanson.com------"This is quite a big Pavillon Blanc with sliced pineapple, ripe apple, lemon and stone. It's full-bodied, layered and phenolic with a ripe sense to it, but then it’s citrusy and salty. Like fresh oysters. Reminds me of vintages from the 1980s, but with more freshness and clarity. 100% sauvignon blanc. 96-97 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Margaux - Pavillon Rouge du Margaux | 75cl | £720 per case of 6 | Château Margaux Pavillon Rouge du Margaux 2023 / / 75cl £720 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Representing 30% of the crop, the 2023 Pavillon Rouge has a very pure and floral bouquet, with crushed violets and blue fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly grainy tannins and moderate depth, quite linear and structured in style with white pepper and a touch of brine on the saline finish. There’s good length, even if it’s missing the amplitude of the previous vintage. 90-92 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Pavillon Rouge is a deep, intense wine. Bright acids drive a core of dark red-toned fruit, spice and flowers. There's a bit more Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, which makes structural elements stand out, but the tannins are on the lower side analytically. I would give this a few years to come together. Pavillon Rouge represents 30% of the château's production. 2025-2043 90-93 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"An aromatic punch of white and red roses, feels very much in the DNA of the estate, with perfume, richly nuanced cassis, bilberry, tobacco leaf, cigar box. Fine tannins, with energy and clear - and this is a 2nd wine that elevates the possibilities of the 2023 vintage. September 11 through to October 5 for harvest, 30% of the production in Pavillon. 93 points" janeanson.com------"Somewhat reminiscent of a cooler-fruited version of the lovely 2019, Château Margaux's 2023 Pavillon Rouge wafts from the glass with aromas of cassis, raspberries, licorice and pipe tobacco, deftly framed by creamy new oak. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a sweet core of fruit, ripe tannins and a lively, succulent profile, it's a blend 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc that attained 13.3% alcohol. 92-94 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"The 2023 Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux accounts for 30% of this year's production. Deep garnet-purple in color, it pops from the glass with vibrant notes of red and black currants followed by hints of rosebud tea, crushed rocks, dried Provence herbs, and Sichuan pepper. The medium-bodied palate delivers an impressive mid-palate of ripe, juicy red and black berry flavors with soft fine-grained tannins and well-knit freshness, finishing with a spicy lift. The blend is 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc, with pH 3.60. 92-94+ points" Lisa Perotti-Brown, The Wine Independent------"Very Chateau Margaux, with perfumed violets, currants and other berries, as well as oranges. Medium body with fine, caressing tannins that are tight and vivid. Racy and refined. Brightness and beauty to this second wine. Succulent. Refined. One of the best Pavillon Rouges in a while. 30% of the production. 79% cabernet sauvignon, 14% merlot, 5% petit verdot and 2% cabernet franc. 96-97 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Mauvesin-Barton | 75cl | £144 per case of 12 | Château Mauvesin-Barton 2023 / / 75cl £144 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Mauvesin Barton has an attractive bouquet with black plum, cassis and light floral scents. This is nicely defined. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and modest weight, but the oak is a little conspicuous toward the finish. It doesn't quite have the ambition or complexity of the 2022, though it represents a fine, perhaps earlier-drinking Moulis-en-Médoc. 89-91 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com ------"Coming from a vintage where the estate experienced mildew, frost, and a touch of hail, the 2023 Château Mauvesin Barton is deep purple-hued and reveals solid aromatics of pretty red berries, raspberries, sappy flowers, and subtle tobacco and herbal notes. A pretty, medium-bodied, elegant Moulis with bright acidity and fine yet building tannins, the blend is 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, and 1% Cabernet Franc, hitting 13.4 alcohol, raised in one-third new oak. Harvest here stretched from the 14th to the 26th of September. 89-91 points" Jebdunnuck.com------"This is firm and chewy with a medium to full body, yet it shows succulent fruit underneath. Outstanding depth as well as a crunchy sense to this, with blackberry and graphite. Profound limestone character is giving this real depth and solidity. 93-94 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Meyney | 75cl | £228 per case of 12 | Château Meyney 2023 / / 75cl £228 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"Aromas of dark berries, cassis, vanilla pod and spicy new oak introduce the 2023 Meyney, a medium-bodied, lean and compact wine with a somewhat drying finish. 87-88 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"The 2023 Meyney is surprisingly backward on the nose with blackberry, kirsch, touches of black pepper and loamy aromas. It remains understated in the glass yet gains purity. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins. Maybe a little conservative in style, it stays within the confines of the vintage, but it feels harmonious. What is missing is just a bit of grip and density on the finish. Let's see if this will "kick on" during its barrel-maturation. Maybe this Meyney has something up its sleeve? 89-91 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Meyney is terrific. Silky and polished, the 2023 shows a side of Meyney I have not seen before. There's also terrific freshness and overall brightness. Dark red plum, blood orange, chalk, mint and dried herbs are all beautifully delineated. More than anything else, I admire the wine's poise. 91-93 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"A very solid Meyney with a firm tannin frame that holds the wine together. Medium body. Juicy finish. 93-94 points" jamessuckling.com------"Often a benchmark wine for me in a vintage, and it is a good sign for the Left Bank in 2023 that Meyney is tasting great. A punch of inky plum and blackberry fruit, good lift and freshness, plenty of tannic grip, an excellent wine. A buy. CA Grands Crus owners. 94 points" janeanson.com and spice. Fine build towards a menthol-tinged finish, winemaker Anne La Nour has conjured a very commendable Saint-Estèphe from a tricky growing season. If release prices match your wallet, I'd stick a case (or two) in the cellar. 91-93 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Montlandrie | 75cl | £164 per case of 12 | Château Montlandrie 2023 / / 75cl £164 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"A blend of 55% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon matured 50% in new oak, the 2023 Montlandrie offers up aromas of flowers, wild dark berries and mulberries with a touch of reduction. Medium to full-bodied, dense and rich with a concentrated core of fruit, it’s enrobing and charming with structuring tannins and a long, licorice and smoke-inflected finish. It will offer a broad drinking window. 90-92 points" Yohan Castaing, RobertParker.com------"This is a serious Montlandrie, has far more Cabernet Sauvignon than usual, and shows a gorgeously savoury ethereal quality, with slow burn release of black fruits, oyster shell salinity, raspberry leaf and peony aromatics, precise, a slow burn, enjoyable. 36hl/h yield. Noëmie Durantou winemaker. 92 points" janeanson.com------"The 2023 Montlandrie is a rich, expansive wine. In 2023, the blend includes more Cabernet Sauvignon than in the past, and that comes through in the wine's textural breadth. Succulent dark plum, crème de cassis, lavender, spice, leather, tobacco, incense and dried herbs build effortlessly in the glass, culminating in a broad, resonant finish that is quite striking. This Montlandrie is such a gorgeous and complete wine. 91-93 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"Sophisticated for the appellation, with blackberries, hazelnuts and a hint of salt. It's medium-bodied and polished, with refinement and length. Nice energy. 92-93 points" jamessuckling.com------"The 2023 Montlandrie sees a change in composition, as a plot of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon that Noëmie Durantou planted in 2021 enters the blend for the first time. She found the first-pressed wine for the Cabernet Sauvignon impressive, so she also added that to the blend. The result is 55% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, picked between September 18 and 30 and matured in 50% new oak. This new makeup certainly gives it a different aromatic profile than previous vintages: black cherries, cedar and pencil shavings, very focused, more Left-Bank-meets-Right-Bank in style. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. It’s beautifully structured and judiciously spiced with gentle grip on the finish. Together with Les Cruzelles, these wines represent outstanding value for money. This will certainly age well in bottle. 92-94 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Montrose | 75cl | £714 per case of 6 | Château Montrose 2023 / / 75cl £714 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Montrose is a dark, brooding powerhouse but with the elegance that is such a signature today. Black cherry, plum, leather, licorice, mocha, spice, tobacco and dried flowers infuse the 2023 with tons of character. The Cabernet Sauvignon is so expressive here. Readers will have to be patient, as this is a wine built for the cellar. It's not especially showy today, but all the ingredients are there. The 2023 is quite the bruiser. In other words, it’s classic Montrose. In the end, that's not terribly surprising, as the winemaking team relied exclusively on the original holdings of about 45 hectares from what the estate calls the 'grand plateau' or 'Terrace 4', essentially the historic core of the property. Harvest ran from September 5 to 28. There was some rain on the 21st, but 15mm of precipitation after a heat spike was not meaningful. The 2023 is magnificent in every way. 2032-2063. 95-97 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Montrose is focused on the original terroir of the estate, known as Terrace 4, located in front of the river. It comprises 45 hectares, around 12 to 15 hectares less than previous vintages so as to capture the expression of Montrose classified in 1855. Picked from September 5 to 28 and matured in 60% new oak, this has a very intense and focused bouquet: pure black fruit with just a touch of strawberry, hints of violet petals developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins—very pure, with pitch-perfect acidity. This gains depth toward the finish but maintains a sense of linearity that ensures it is one of the vintage’s finest contributions from the Left Bank. Magnificent. 96-98 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Gorgeously dark and vibrant fruit, with gunsmoke and campfire, concentrated cassis and blackberry pastille, grilled almond, saffron and pomegrante, luscious but measured, showing the inky character that seems to be at the heart of the best Cabernets of this vintage, with their ripe but not overly exuberant classicism. Organic conversion, to be certified 2025. The first vintage this 1st wine of Montrose is coming only from the section of the vineyard located on Terrace 4 of the Médoc gravel banks that line the Garonne river along the peninsula. Following soil studies from Pierre Becheler, this comprises 35% of the overall production in 2023, or 45ha of vines, and is the historic heart of the property. Pierre Grafeuille director, Vincent Decup technical director. 98 points." Jane Anson------"Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2023 Montrose gallops out of the glass with intense scents of crushed blackcurrants, fresh blackberries, and raspberries along with nuances of licorice, crushed rocks, and mossy tree bark plus a hint of iron ore. The medium-bodied palate has impressive tension and tight-knit black and red berry flavors intertwined with mineral accents, framed by fine-grained tannins, finishing long and sparkly. The first wine accounted for only 35% of the estate's production this year. The blend is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc, with pH 3.70. 97-99 points" Lisa Perotti-Brown, The Wine Independent------"Made from a strict selection of only the best terroirs (terrace 4) around the estate and the oldest vines, the 2023 Château Montrose is a more Cabernet Sauvignon-driven wine than normal and is based on 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc that will see 18 months in 60% new French oak. The result is a more plush, deep, opulent wine that has classic Montrose darker, almost blue fruits, violets, chocolate, and damp earth-like aromas and flavors. Deep, rich, full-bodied, and expansive on the palate, it has more richness, breadth, and concentration than just about every other wine in the vintage. The 2023 hit 13.5% natural alcohol with a pH of 3.7. It has some similarities to the 2010 (or 2016?) and might end up being the wine of the vintage. 97-100 points" Jebdunnuck.com------"The 2023 Montrose is another brilliant wine from an estate that's now routinely among Bordeaux's very best, year in, year out. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, derived exclusively from the estate's historic core on the fourth terrace situated just in front of the château itself, it unwinds in the glass with aromas of cassis and wild berries mingled with notions of lilac, violet and pencil shavings. Full-bodied, deep and layered, with a textural attack that segues into a dense, multidimensional mid-palate framed by beautifully ripe tannins and lively acids, it concludes with a long, resonant finish. It will be worth a special effort to seek out. 97-100 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"Wow. This is the essence of Montrose, with blackberry, blackcurrant, crushed stone and earth. I have not tasted a Montrose like this in 42 years of my career. It has a much more vertical nature to it, with layered tannins that go very deep and long, The muscular structure and intensity is something else. This is a new era for Montrose. It is now made from only 45 hectares of vineyards right in front of the chateau, instead of about 60 before. 75% cabernet sauvignon, 21% merlot and 4% cabernet franc. 99-100 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Mouton Rothschild | 75cl | £2,034 per case of 6 | Château Mouton Rothschild 2023 / / 75cl £2,034 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Aromas of crème de cassis and dark berries mingled with pencil shaving, espresso roast and violets introduce the 2023 Mouton Rothschild, a medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy wine with a creamy core of ripe but lively fruit, sweet tannins and an expansive finish. In terms of parcels, the 2023 is quite different in origins from the 2022, favoring plots that are better-drained rather than those resistant to drought. It's a blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Merlot, without either Cabernet Franc or Petit Verdot featuring in the blend, and it attained 13.3% alcohol. 94-96 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com 96-98 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"This is the most structured Mouton since the great 2016, with tannins that start slowly and then take off. It’s muscular and toned. It’s full-bodied but doesn’t come across too heavy. It builds up in intensity and goes on and on and on. It just keeps expanding. I took a double take here. 93% cabernet sauvignon and 7% merlot. 98-99 points" jamessuckling.com------"High Cabernet, and the grape is dominant not just in blend but character, totally delicious, with tension, flesh, and confidence, building layers of black fruits, graphite, cocoa bean, espresso, pomegranate and smoked earth throughout the palate. When Cabernet works at Mouton, it is hard to beat, and it's on full display in 2023. One of my clear wines of the vintage. Of any vintage. 100% new oak for ageing. 40% grand vin, harvest September 7 to 30. 98-100 points" janeanson.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Mouton Rothschild - Le Petit Mouton | 75cl | £822 per case of 6 | Château Mouton Rothschild Le Petit Mouton 2023 / / 75cl £822 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Aromas of dark berries, cassis and cigar wrapper introduce the 2023 Le Petit Mouton, a medium-bodied, fleshy wine with good depth and density, its lively core of fruit framed by sweet, powdery tannins, concluding with a penetrating finish. It's a blend of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. 91-93 points." (WK) Wine Advocate, Apr '24------"Slate and grip, clear again here that this is not the most exuberant of vintages, it's classical with a serious backbone. That doesn't mean that Petit Mouton isn't out to make you happy, and you can expect plenty of black chocolate, damson, black cherry, signature cocoa bean, espresso and salted cracker, but the tannins are pretty fierce. Harvest September 7 to 30 (but 2/3 of grapes coming in after September 21), 39% of production. 94 points" janeanson.com------"The 2023 Le Petit-Mouton is fabulous. It could easy be a Grand Vin at another address. Rich, ample and beautifully resonant in the glass, the 2023 impresses with its notable palate presence. Dark red cherry, pomegranate, cinnamon, rose petal and new leather are some of the many notes that build. The 2023 is seriously impressive. Wow! 93-95 points." Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com, Apr '24------"This is a tighter and more compact Petit Mouton with a full-bodied, compact palate that is framed nicely by the tannins. Savory and juicy. Structured. Contained. 79% cabernet sauvignon, 12% merlot, 7% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot. Better than 2022? 95-96 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Palmer | 75cl | £0 per case of 12 | Château Palmer 2023 / / 75cl £0 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Palmer represents two-thirds of the crop this year, raised in barrel (50% new) until July, then racked into 3,000-liter foudres for another 12 months. My sample was representative of the new oak ratio. The nose is very intense, as normal, loaded with blackberry, boysenberry, violet and veins of blood orange in the background. Powerful, though not in the same way as the barnstorming 2022, it manages to retain focus. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grip on the entry. This is quite a deep Palmer with touches of licorice-tinged black fruit. It’s more opulent than almost all other Margaux wines this vintage, furnished with black pepper and allspice on the finish. It will require several years in bottle. The 2023 Palmer is one of the most long-term, serious wines on the Left Bank. 95-97 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Director Thomas Duroux and his team elected to harvest late in pursuit of full maturity, beginning with the Merlot on September 11 and finishing the Cabernet Sauvignon on October 5 to produce a beautiful 2023 Palmer, redolent of cherries, wild berries, rose petals and violets. A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot, it's medium to full-bodied, plush and enveloping, with a cool core of fruit, succulent acids, ultra-refined tannins and a seamless, complete profile. 96-97 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"The vivid density and structure to this is really captivating, with pure blackcurrant character. Full-bodied with very silky, refined and ultra-fine tannins and an exquisite finish. Caresses every inch of the palate. It's seems like it will be large and overpowering, but it's actually ethereal and cloud-like. The tannin quality is so refined and, in a way, weightless. 50% cabernet sauvignon, 46% merlot and 4% petit verdot. 97-98 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Palmer - Alter Ego de Palmer | 75cl | £354 per case of 6 | Château Palmer Alter Ego de Palmer 2023 / / 75cl £354 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Alter Ego represents one-third of the crop, coming exclusively from gravel soil and picked at 32hL/ha. It displays a very deep purple hue. The bouquet is notably opulent, with the Merlot very expressive and shaping the aromatics at the moment. Hints of cassis and violets lurk beneath, perhaps needing a little more delineation. The palate is actually cut from a slightly different cloth, more restrained and a touch spicier than expected. Graphite and tobacco emerge toward the finish, as if the reins have been passed over to the Cabernet component. This will be fascinating to revisit in bottle—I would just like to see more aromatic composure. 92-94 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Composing one-third of the production, the 2023 Alter Ego De Palmer is based on 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot. It's an inky hued second wine that has a round, medium to full-bodied, ripe, downright sexy profile as well as ample red and blue fruits, some violet and graphite notes, ripe tannins, and a great finish. I'd be thrilled to drink this gorgeous 2023 any time over the coming 15-20 years. While I don't think 2023 is the best vintage for the second wines, this is brilliant. 92-94 points" Jebdunnuck.com------"Wafting from the glass with pure aromas of cherries, berries, plums and potpourri, the 2023 Alter Ego de Palmer is medium to full-bodied, bright and vibrant, with a vigorous core of fruit framed by supple tannins. It's a blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot. 92-94 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"This is dense and velvety with a creamy texture. Blackberry, blueberry and stone aromas and flavors. Layered. Very primary and focused. 53% cabernet sauvignon, 43% merlot and 4% petit verdot. 95-96 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Pape Clement | 75cl | £354 per case of 6 | Château Pape Clement 2023 / / 75cl £354 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Inky depths to the plum colour; as is often the case with Pape Clement even under the new regime of the past few vintages where new oak has been lowered. Delivers an exuberant, confident estate signature, supple texture, roasted black cherry and cherry pit, cocoa bean, espresso, a cushion of air helps give a lift on the finish to what is a fairly highly charged architecture. 35hl/ha yield. 93 points" janeanson.com------"The 2023 Pape Clément evokes aromas of dark wild berries, spices, licorice and mulberries, followed by a medium to full-bodied, round and ample palate with structuring tannins and a firm, concentrated mid-palate that segues into a long, fruity finish. Less oaky than the previous years, this is a more contemporary expression of this great terroir. It's a blend of 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. 92-94 points" Yohan Castaing, RobertParker.com------"The 2023 Pape Clément is the first vintage fully employing crème de levures, using native yeasts in the vineyard to start the fermentation and improve balance, together with two native yeasts regularly employed since 2012 (to maintain some consistency). It was picked from September 5 to October 3 and matured in 60% new oak, including foudres. The 2023 is cut from a very different cloth compared to recent vintages. It’s much more classic in style, almost reserved, with tightly wound black fruit mixed with briar and light gravelly scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a light entry, just a pinch of spice and moderate depth. The silky, peppery, finish is more tertiary than you would expect to find on what was once quite a bombastic Pessac-Léognan. One sample had a soupçon of herbaceousness, whilst another at the château had none at all. Very fine. I like this new direction. though I would not regard this as a benchmark for future vintages. This will be interesting to revisit after bottling. 93-95 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Pape Clément is one of the most exciting wines I have tasted here in a long time, maybe ever. Intensely aromatic and layered, the 2023 is simply stunning. Dried flowers, mint, licorice, mocha, cedar and tobacco soar out of the glass. The purity of the flavors is simply mind-blowing. Plum, pomegranate, blood orange and spice build in the glass, adding notable textural richness and resonance. This is the first vintage vinified with indigenous yeasts. Aging takes place in a combination of concrete tanks, ceramic eggs, Clayvers, 400-liter barrels and 225-liter barriques. For readers who want to taste the “new” Bordeaux, this is it. What a wine! Tasted four times. 2030-2053 95-97 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"This is really classy with length and polish that shine brightly. Also, you see blackberry, bark, currant and mushroom character. Full-bodied with wonderfully polished tannins and a seamless finish. 97-98 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Château Pape Clement Blanc | 75cl | £546 per case of 6 | Château Pape Clement Blanc 2023 / / 75cl £546 per case of 6 |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Pavie | 75cl | £1,392 per case of 6 | Château Pavie 2023 / / 75cl £1,392 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Plus damson and black cherry fruits, rich and ripe but balanced by tomato leaf, pumice stone. This is intense and concentrated, skilfully constructed showing fragrant cumin and turmeric spice that lifts through the palate, opening to show black tea, blood orange, cocoa bean, mint leaf, totally delicious and speaks clearly of its limestone soils. Feels at the top of its game. Harvest September 18 to October 5, 72% new oak for ageing, Gerard Perse owner. 96 points" janeanson.com------"The 2023 Pavie was picked from September 18 to October 5 at 32.76hL/ha, with some Cabernet Franc actually picked after the Cabernet Sauvignon. Raised in 72% new French oak plus one-year-old barrels, this has a very well-defined and fresh bouquet that articulates the terroir with some style. It is completely different from the Pavie wines I tasted at the estate 10 to 15 years ago—more classical and sophisticated. The palate is medium-bodied with a clean and precise entry. It's lightly spiced with a subtle marine influence—shucked oyster shells and seaweed are embroidered through the black fruit. There's a dash of black pepper toward the finish that remains focused and feels long in the mouth. This is an excellent Pavie in the making. 95-97 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Pavie is fabulous. Rich, dense and explosive in the glass, it offers up generous dark red fruit, cedar, spice, pipe tobacco, menthol and mocha. The 2023 impresses with its notable density and sheer palate presence. Naturally, this needs time to be at its best, but it is already incredibly expressive. This is a superb vintage for Pavie. 95-97+ points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Pavie was picked from September 18 to October 5 at 32.76hL/ha, with some Cabernet Franc actually picked after the Cabernet Sauvignon. Raised in 72% new French oak plus one-year-old barrels, this has a very well-defined and fresh bouquet that articulates the terroir with some style. It is completely different from the Pavie wines I tasted at the estate 10 to 15 years ago—more classical and sophisticated. The palate is medium-bodied with a clean and precise entry. It's lightly spiced with a subtle marine influence—shucked oyster shells and seaweed are embroidered through the black fruit. There's a dash of black pepper toward the finish that remains focused and feels long in the mouth. This is an excellent Pavie in the making. 95-97 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The depth and intensity is really out of this world. The richness is there, but it's all in balance and has an almost weightless feel to it. It's medium- to full-bodied with purity and definition, and the magic of limestone soils keeps the pH low, giving energy, bright acidity and verve. Terrific young red. 51% merlot, 32% cabernet franc and 17% cabernet sauvignon. 99-100 points" jamessuckling.com |
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