Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur
At the end of April, we tasted several hundred wines from the 2023 vintage, visited thirty-five top châteaux and, most importantly, discussed the wines with dozens of châteaux owners and winemakers. As is invariably the case, by the time we came home our understanding of the vintage was completely different from our expectations.
2023 was the hottest autumn and the second-hottest year on record in France, but not in Bordeaux, with its Atlantic influences. Peak temperatures were lower than in '22 and rainfall was much higher. The widely reported issues with mildew were not evident in the wines we tasted. Top estates have the resources to combat the issue or to reduce yields where necessary.
We started our tastings in Pessac-Léognan, with Daniel Cathiard of Smith Haut Lafitte, still a bit giddy from hosting a visit by King Charles' during the harvest. The ripeness and aromatic intensity of the Cabernet Sauvignon here was echoed next at Haut-Bailly, where we met with Veronique Saunders and her Technical Director Gabriel Vialard.
Very quickly a theme emerged, of perfectly balanced, elegant wines with moderate alcohol (usually 13-13.5% on the left bank) and fresh fruit, wrapped up with firm, structured tannins, giving many of the wines a thoughtful, austere character. The word 'Atlantic' seems to sum up their style, especially when you factor in the pronounced mineral and saline notes we found at many estates.
In Pomerol and St-Emilion we met some beautiful wines at L'Evangile, Cheval Blanc, Figeac, Le Pin, Canon, Ausone and Le Tertre Rôtebeouf, with Vieux Château Certan producing another show-stopper. In some cases, the reduced Merlot crop had led to increased intensity, but more often the theme of elegance and freshness continued. L'Eglise Clinet was definitely a contender for wine of the vintage, a defining moment for winemaker Noemie Durantou.
Tasting in St-Estèphe and Pauillac, we found tremendous expressions of terroir, far more so than in the more homogenous 2022 vintage, with endless variations on crushed rock and mineral notes in St-Estèphe. Particular highlights were Phelan-Segur (with a superb lunch!), Cos d'Estournel and Calon-Segur. Montrose epitomized the direction of winemaking in the region, with fruit for the 2023 coming solely from vines on 'Terrace 4' gravel, the terroir that forms the heart of the estate (and many other top Médoc vineyards), producing a more linear, less broad-shouldered wine than in previous vintages. The sense of terroir was almost as evident in Pauillac, with highlights including Pontet-Canet, Pichon-Lalande, Clerc-Milon and Duhart-Milon.
The theme of terroir continued in Margaux, with the silkiest of tannins and wonderful elegance at Palmer and Margaux, both of which have produced potentially perfect wines. We also found numerous beautiful wines in St-Julien, although this was perhaps the most heterogeneous commune. Léoville Las Cases, already released with a huge 40% reduction on the '22, is one of the success stories, with the other Léovilles not far behind, and Beychevelle has surely made one of its best wines in years. As for Ducru-Beaucaillou, Xavier Borie has demonstrated his maverick tendencies once again, producing an inexplicably opulent wine which nevertheless has superb balance.
For us, 2023 is a very good vintage, but the best wines reach greatness. Quality is increasingly variable at Cru Bourgeois level and below, where estates may have lacked resources to respond to mildew. The key words from our notes are terroir, elegance, balance, moderate alcohol and 'Atlantic'. Precision and purity also feature heavily, but this is more a feature of modern winemaking using precision viticulture and vinification in small vats. Quality has improved immeasurably, even in just the last decade. Contemporary winemaking techniques also mean that the wines will be drinking earlier than in the past, but will also age for several decades.
With many wines releasing with 20-40% discounts making them at or even below 2019 prices, we think there is every reason to add them to your cellar.
It looks like the releases will be very early this year, with some big names due out in late April and many others in May.
The 2023 Growing Season in Bordeaux
Our summary of the growing season in 2023 is taken from an excellent report prepared by the Oenology Research Unit of the University of Bordeaux[i] for the UGC.
- Winter 2022/3 was cool, with low sunshine and adequate rainfall, but lower than in previous hot years like 2022 and ’20.
- The cool winter meant bud break was not too early, preventing frost damage.
- A humid spring led to widespread mildew, a major challenge, especially for Merlot; but the impact on both left and right banks varied, from major to negligible, causing a disparity in yields between different estates.
- May was sunny, warm, and dry, with good vine growth and a very even flowering. Estates not hit by mildew had the promise of very good yields.
- June to mid-August was slightly warmer than average but a bit dull; dry but with regular storms.
- Period to 15 August full of contrasts - slightly warmer than average, a bit dull, dry, but with regular storms
- From 16 August, a heatwave arrived. Unusually, the vines responded by stopping their vegetative growth (conserving moisture and nutrients) and put their energy into fruit ripening. Ripening conditions were excellent, with the exception of young vines on well-drained soils or grapes over-exposed to sunshine.
- Merlot harvest began in the first week of September. Heavy rain on 20 September - brought forward the Cabernet harvest at some estates. Other estates chose to wait until after the rain (which was less heavy than forecast).
- An "Indian summer" gave plenty of time to pick the last red grapes without fear of rot.
- The white wine harvest was excellent for both dry and sweet white wines. The cooler start to the summer produced excellent acidity levels. In Sauternes, alternating wet/dry spells were ideal for botrytis, which developed earlier than in previous vintages. Warm dry weather in October allowed for repeated ‘tries’ in the vineyard.
[i] Prof. Laurence Geny, Elodie Guittard, Dr. Valérie Lavigne and Prof. Axel Marchal Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences of Bordeaux University, Oenology Research Unit, ‘The 2023 vintage in Bordeaux’
| RED | 2023 | Château Phelan Ségur | 75cl | £186 per case of 6 | Château Phelan Ségur 2023 / / 75cl £186 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, the 2023 Phélan Ségur offers up aromas of cassis, dark berries, licorice and toasty new oak, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and nicely concentrated palate with plenty of powdery structuring tannin and good length on the finish. It's a strong effort. 91-93 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"The 2023 Phélan Ségur was picked September 18 to October 11 at 52hL/ha and matured in 55% new oak. This has a very pure bouquet. You can actually tell that there is less SO2 being employed here since it displays that strong crushed strawberry fruit, almost confit-like character, turning more floral with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins. This is very well balanced, though not a Phélan Ségur laden with huge concentration (the analytical alcohol is a more restrained 13.54%). There is just a touch of balsamic that perks up the finish, while graphite notes join the chorus line toward the close. Quite an "involving" wine in the cards, this will be fascinating to revisit once in bottle. 92-94 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Standout quality, delivering squid ink, cocoa bean, espresso, fresh cut herbs, sculpted and impressively confident, with frame and architecture while remaining succulent, and appealing. Will be ready to drink within four or five years of bottling but go for decades. Harvest began here on September 18, with the Cabernets coming in early October, finishing on the 11th (longest harvest on record, 18 days picking over one month). Native yeasts for fermentation after an extensive programme combining many wild yeasts from their vineyard, under the direction of the team Luc Peyronnet and Stéphane Rougé. An exciting estate right now, Philippe Van de Vyvere owner, Veronique Dausse director. Really one to look out for. If you follow my notes I hate saying this, but truly believe this is the best Phélan Ségur that I have tasted En Primeur. 55% new oak for ageing. 95 points" janeanson.com------"The polish and intensity of this wine is beautiful for the vintage, with blackcurrant, lead pencil and light chocolate character. It’s medium- to full-bodied with well-integrated fruit and tannins, and a long finish. Velvet texture. Excellent potential. Fermented from selected yeast from the various parcels. 58% cabernet sauvignon, 39% merlot, 1.5% petit verdot, and 1.5% cabernet franc. Let’s see which is better in the end, 2022 or 2023. 96-97 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Pichon Baron | 75cl | £616 per case of 6 | Château Pichon Baron 2023 / / 75cl £616 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Pichon Baron was picked September 12 until October 4 and matured in 70% new oak. Now, this is a conspicuous level up over the Les Griffons. Perhaps the quality of the Cabernet Sauvignon, comprising 80% of the blend, exaggerates the difference between the two cuvées. It seems to gain intensity with each swirl of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins that frame the graphite-infused black fruit. It’s very focused, fresh and quite sapid in the mouth, with a subtle strictness that codifies this as Pichon Baron. The 2023 is a quintessential Pauillac that will age gracefully over the next 30 or 40 years. It reminds me a little of the 2019. Classic "P.B." 94-96 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, the 2023 Pichon-Longueville Baron is a terrific effort from this estate, unwinding in the glass with aromas of crème de cassis, dark berries, pencil shavings, cigar wrapper, violets and burning embers. Medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, it's deep and concentrated, with sweet structuring tannins and a long, resonant finish. The charm and vibrancy of the vintage lends this considerable appeal, without effacing Pichon Baron's more serious, Cabernet-driven personality. 95-97 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"The 2023 Pichon Baron is stellar. It is another wine in this lineup that impresses with its finesse and nobility. Dark and enveloping, with terrific freshness, this Grand Vin is so expressive. The 2023 is an understated, wonderfully refined Pichon Baron. Dark fruit, violet and mocha build into the resonant finish. 2033-2063 95-97 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"The freshness and brightness of the blackcurrant and orange-peel fruit give a real al-dente feel. Some stone and spice underneath. Medium-bodied with very fine tannins and a refined finish. A PB with tight, linear tannins. 80% cabernet sauvignon and 20% merlot. 96-97 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Pichon Lalande | 75cl | £660 per case of 6 | Château Pichon Lalande 2023 / / 75cl £660 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was picked from September 6 until 29, with some rain on September 20 in the middle of Cabernet picking. But, Nicolas Glumineau remarked that the vineyard/fruit was in good condition; one day of rain did not affect the quality. The 2023 has a quintessential Comtesse bouquet, displaying pure and expressive black fruit laced with violet and graphite, delivered with impressive delineation. The palate is very refined on the entry. This is armed with beguiling symmetry—poised yet intense on the finish. It doesn’t exert huge grip because it knows it doesn't need to, and it fans out gloriously. Outstanding. 96-98 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a brilliant wine that will be worth a special effort to track down. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of wild berries and cassis mingled with licorice, lilac, iris root, violet, burning embers and pencil shavings, it's medium to full-bodied, seamless and complete, with a deep, layered core of cool fruit that largely conceals it's ultra-refined structuring tannins. At a very measured 13% alcohol and 3.67 pH, it unites all Pichon Comtesse's sensuality with unimpeachable Pauillac classicism. The 2023 is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc. 97-99 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"Wow. This is really excellent, with superb finesse and focus. It has tight density that is almost diamond-like in its brilliance. Medium to full body, with a quality of tannin that is incredibly seamless. Like silk in texture. A top Pichon Lalande. From organic and biodynamically grown grapes. 80% cabernet sauvignon, 17% merlot and 3% cabernet franc. May be better than 2022. 98-99 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Pontet Canet | 75cl | £394 per case of 6 | Château Pontet Canet 2023 / / 75cl £394 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Pontet Canet, which underwent à 34 day harvest...has a very pure bouquet with dark cherries, blackcurrant and touches of vanilla, cohering over the course of ten minutes in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, with very supple tannins matched by a keen line of acidity. There is plenty of creaminess on the mid-palate, fine grip and a pinch of black pepper toward the finish. Moderate in length, there's lovely linearity here and an underlying salinity that becomes evident with continued aeration. Very fine. 93-95 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"With the 2023 vintage, this estate has crafted a wine of unprecedented aromatic intensity and precision that marks a significant evolution. Revealing an elegant, fresh bouquet of mulberries and cassis mingled with notions of violets, gentian and menthol, the 2023 Pontet-Canet is medium to full-bodied, seamless and multidimensional, with a pure and precise core of fruit that's framed by ultra-refined tannins and a powerful but controlled profile, concluding with long, mineral, licorice-inflected finish. It's the result of more daring harvest decisions than in previous years: By picking the Merlot earlier to highlight fresh, fruity notes rather than baked, sun-kissed flavors and simultaneously delaying the Cabernet Sauvignon harvest until after September 28 to refine tannins, the 2023 Pontet-Canet marks a significant evolution at this renowned estate. At this early stage, its élevage appears to be more discreet, too. This wine, which I'd be delighted to own, is a blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot, matured in 50% new oak barrels, 35% amphorae and 15% once-used barrels. 96-98 points" Yohan Castaing, RobertParker.com------"A very structured Pontet-Canet that expands in the mouth with a gorgeous combination of beautifully ripe fruit and intense tannins. Very structured for the vintage. Fullbodied with excellent presence and length. So much raw pencil shavings to the blackcurrants. Graphite and tar. Fresh and vivid. They picked cabernet at the right time at the end of September. 52% cabernet sauvignon, 39% merlot, 6% cabernet franc and 3% petit verdot. 97-98 points" jamessuckling.com------"A wine to convince you of the quality and ripeness of Cabernet Sauvignon in Pauillac in this 2023 vintage, showcasing superbly supple tannins, great balance, depth and savoury blue and black fruit character, bitter cocoa bean, freshly cut herbs, black tea, fennel, all vivid and with purity of character. There is density here but it is not overt, with heightened raspberry leaf, peony and violet aromatics. Vinified in the newly-completed section of the cellars, with sunken qveri-style cement vats (and egg-shaped wooden vats coming for the 2024 vintage). 50% new oak for ageing, with 35% amphora and 15% one year old barrels. One of the wines of the vintage. New lighter bottle as of the 2022 around 490g, down from 815g in the past, 30 tonnes of CO2 saved just in terms of production. Harvest September 7, one day earlier than 2022, then slow picking through to October 10, later than many in Pauillac - and normal yields of around 40hl/h. 98-100 points" janeanson.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Potensac | 75cl | £180 per case of 12 | Château Potensac 2023 / / 75cl £180 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Potensac is a solid effort, offering up aromas of dark berries, cherries, loamy soil and cigar wrapper, followed by a medium-bodied, fleshy palate that's taut and penetrating, with good depth at the core. 89-91 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"The 2023 Potensac has a well-defined nose: predominantly black fruit, with touches of seaweed in the background. I warm to it more with acquaintance, and it gradually coheres. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins and a fine line of acidity. Silky-smooth in texture, you can tell that there is some quality new oak on the finish, which is simpatico with the fruit. It's a good, solid Potensac that will require three or four years in bottle. 90-92 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Concentrated and intense, fragrant spicy notes of green peppercorn, liqourice root, smoked earth, freshly cut herbs and black tea. Plenty of lift, a little serious and austere, but this is a well balanced and enjoyable wine. Harvest Setepbmer 18 to 29, 20% new oak for ageing. No 2nd wine of Potensac since 2021, since they pulled out more than 20ha of vines to retain only the most high quality parts of the vineyard. 92 points" janeanson.com------"Beautiful dark fruit with purity and freshness. Medium- to full-bodied, seamless and compact. Outstanding quality of tannins, so fine and dense. It’s muscular and taut on the mid-palate. Lingering, too. Plenty of energy. Close to 2022. 93-94 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Rauzan Ségla | 75cl | £360 per case of 6 | Château Rauzan Ségla 2023 / / 75cl £360 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Rauzan-Ségla was picked from September 7 until 29 at 30hL/ha, matured in 55% new oak. It contains more Cabernet Sauvignon this year (85%) due to the mildew-affected Merlot being parsed out of the blend. This has a very aromatic bouquet of wilted violets, black cherries and hints of camphor, with a faint oyster shell note lingering in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins. This is endowed with tension and purity, while a light marine influence imparts character. Armed with an energetic, spicy finish, this is a more classical Rauzan-Ségla that deserves five or six years in bottle. Even so, it already conveys an air of sophistication. 93-95 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Rauzan-Ségla shows considerable promise, unwinding in the glass with aromas of cherries, dark berries and plums mingled with hints of pencil shavings and violets. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's deep and fleshy, with terrific purity of fruit, supple tannins and a long, resonant finish. This classic in the making is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13.5% Merlot and 1.5% Petit Verdot. 94-96 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"Inkier and more luscious in texture than the Ségla, this has rich layers to its aromatic palate, showing rhubarb, savoury cassis and blueberry, peony, rose petals, soot, gunsmoke, graphite, flint, weight and texture, spiralling upwards. Wonderful expression of a wine that seems supremely Margaux and supremely Rauzan Ségla. 50% new oak. 96 points" janeanson.com------"The 2023 Rauzan-Segla is deep garnet-purple in color. It prances out with flamboyant notes of Morello cherries, blackcurrant pastilles, violets, and licorice giving way to suggestions of rosebud tea, crushed rocks, and Sichuan pepper. The medium-bodied palate delivers amazing tension to offset the shiny black and red berry layers, framed by velvety tannins, finishing long and perfumed. This is gorgeous! The blend is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13.5% Merlot, and 1.5% Petit Verdot, aging 18 months in oak, 55% new, with pH 3.61 and yield 30 hl/ ha. 95-97 points" Lisa Perotti-Brown, The Wine Independent------"The 2023 Rauzan-Ségla is fabulous. Rich, dense and explosive, the 2023 soars out of the glass with captivating aromatics. Readers will find a vertical, deep Margaux endowed with tremendous character and nuance. All the elements are so well-balanced. Crushed rocks, plum, blood orange, spice and leather are some of the notes that explode into the finish. In 2023, the Grand Vin is distinctly red-fruited and vibrant. Rauzan-Ségla is one of the most memorable wines of the vintage. It was nothing short of stellar on the four occasions I tasted it. 96-98 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"Rauzan-Segla with solid tannins that are muscular, well toned and beautiful. Black currants, blueberries and flowers. Chewy finish. One for the cellar. Classic. The cabernet went to the gym. 85% cabernet sauvignon, one of highest percentages ever. 97-98 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Roc de Cambes | 75cl | £260 per case of 6 | Château Roc de Cambes 2023 / / 75cl £260 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Roc de Cambes delivers oodles of black cherries and cassis fruit on the nose. It’s very floral and extravagant yet retains delineation and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with licorice-tinged black fruit, hints of Indian spice and marmalade. This is quite a tangy Roc de Cambes with a persistent, figgy finish. 89-91 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"High intensity of tannins, a ton of grip and energy through the palate, black fruits and liquorice notes are exuberant with clear personality. Delicious, and should be excellent value. 91 points" janeanson.com------"The 2023 Roc de Cambes opens with a super-distinctive, exotic bouquet. Super-ripe black cherry, kirsch, hard candy, chocolate, spice, amaro herbs, menthol and worn-in leather infuse the palate with tremendous depth. Roc de Cambes is a quirky wine, but it certainly doesn’t lack character. Drink 2025-2037. 90-92 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2023 Roc de Cambes bursts with gregarious notes of juicy black cherries and black raspberries followed by hints of violets, tar, and wood smoke with a touch of garrigue. The medium to full-bodied palate is taut, with dense muscular fruit framed by firm grainy tannins and beautiful tension, finishing long and minerally. This is impressive! 92-94 points" Lisa Perotti-Brown, The Wine Independent |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Saint Pierre | 75cl | £389 per case of 12 | Château Saint Pierre 2023 / / 75cl £389 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Saint-Pierre contains no Cabernet Franc and it will not be blended into the Grand Vin henceforth. This has a bit more animation and vigor than the Gloria, precise and fresh with plenty of black fruit and a lovely graphite note underneath. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins but there is clearly more concentration compared to the Gloria (this was actually done partly in the winery). A touch of soy towards the finish completes an attractive Saint-Pierre. 91-93 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"A strong effort, the 2023 Saint-Pierre unwinds in the glass with aromas of cassis, dark berries and incense, framed by a deft touch of new oak. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, with good mid-palate density, powdery tannins and lively acids, it's a classically proportioned Saint-Julien that will age with grace. The blend is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot. 92-94 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Saintayme | 75cl | £121 per case of 12 | Château Saintayme 2023 / / 75cl £121 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"A 100% Merlot, the 2023 Saintayme evokes aromas of dark wild berries, mulberries, licorice and pencil lead, followed by a round, supple and juicy palate with a fleshy core of fruit and dense, rich tannins that assert themselves with a structured finish. 88-90 points" Yohan Castaing, RobertParker.com------"The 2023 Saintayme is pure Merlot, as usual, picked between September 27 and October 4 and matured in 30% new oak. This is quite lush on the nose with black plum and light blueberry scents and fine purity. It clocks in at 14.6% alcohol, but that is nicely disguised. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly powdery texture, moderate weight and good balance. There’s perhaps slightly less complexity on the finish compared to the 2022 at this stage last year. 89-91 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Medium intensity ruby, austere tannins on the opening, this has lemongrass and slate, juicy raspberry and grilled spice notes, slow and steady unrolling through the palate. Plenty to love. 92 points" janeanson.com------"The 2023 Saintayme, 100% Merlot, is a deep, serious wine. There's a real core of inner strength here. Dark red fruit, cedar, spice and dried flowers open with some coaxing, but the 2023 impresses most with its overall poise. Pretty floral overtones add brightness. The 2023 is a very fine Saintayme. 91-93 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"Lovely freshness and balance with berries, orange peel and crushed stone. It's medium-bodied with nice, round tannins. Pure merlot. 92-93 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Sénéjac | 75cl | £138 per case of 12 | Château Sénéjac 2023 / / 75cl £138 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"This shows structure and finesse with a dusty texture to the tannins. Medium- to full-bodied with plenty of dark fruit and a creamy aftertaste. A little light at the end. 89-90 points" jamessuckling.com------"A blend based on 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2023 Sénéjac exhibits notes of dark berries, red cherries and pipe tobacco, followed by a medium to full-bodied, lively and fleshy palate that's bright, supple and charming. It's a strong effort. 89-91 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"The 2023 Sénéjac has a somehow "distant" bouquet that requires aeration to open up, with graphite/pencil shavings littered over the light black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a bright, slightly bitter entry that at least has decent tension. It is not a powerful Haut-Médoc-quite linear, strict and classical in style. I don't quite engage with this Sénéjac as much as other vintages, yet it evidences thoughtful winemaking and should broaden out during barrel- maturation. This may end up at the top of my banded score. 90-92 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Soft but plentiful tannins from the first moment, this is lovely, with a real sense of grip and life, rises gently through the palate, touches of tomato leaf and liqourice root coupled with ruby brambled fruit and an overall sense of balance and cheer, Haut Medoc typicity, austere tannins on the finish, but in a way that suggests ability to age, and an ability to bring you out of the glass and into the place and the terroir. Nancy Bignon Cordier, also owner of Château Talbot in St Julien. A value, one to look out for. 92 points" janeanson.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Siran | 75cl | £252 per case of 12 | Château Siran 2023 / / 75cl £252 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Siran is a rich, earthy Margaux. Cherry, tobacco, dried herbs and scorched earth add to an impression of rustic, wild power. This Siran has a ton of power, but incisive tannins give an impression of untamed intensity. Tasted two times. 87-89 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"Exhibiting aromas of dark berries and sweet new oak, the 2023 Siran is medium to full-bodied, dense and youthfully structured. It's a solid effort. 89-91 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"The 2023 Siran, picked September 11 to 29, has a well-defined bouquet that is not as complex as the previous vintage. It is focused and delineated, with black fruit mixed with graphite and melted tar, almost Saint-Julien in style. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, quite minerally and lively without the depth of the 2022, yet rather elegant and refined on the finish. This constitutes a very gracious Margaux and as I tried second and third bottles towards the end of my trip, it just seemed to get better and better. 92-94 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"An enjoyably sculpted Siran, plenty of depth to the tannins, balanced, juicy and inky, with crushed pure liqourice root, bluebuerry and cassis pastille, rose petals and mint. This is delicious, with tension and a mouthwatering finish, great stuff from owner Edouard Miaihle and winemaker Marjolaine Defrance. 35% new oak for ageing. A buy. 94 points" janeanson.com------"Wow. This is really well done with plenty of al-dente fruit character, bright acidity and firm, fine tannins that are already well integrated. Medium-bodied. Crunchy. 94-95 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Château Suduiraut | 75cl | £260 per case of 6 | Château Suduiraut 2023 / / 75cl £260 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Suduiraut is pure Sémillon that was picked from the end of September with more passerillage berries. After the rain, the first botrytis picking began on October 1 and lasted over the next 12 days, when botrytization was rapid. Seventy percent of the crop was picked on this date, which was essential for maintaining purity of fruit. The harvest concluded on October 17 after three tries through the vineyard. Matured in 50% new oak, it has a lovely, beguiling bouquet with dried honey, quince, almond and saffron aromas that are beautifully defined. The palate is well balanced with a spicy, tensile opening. Very impressive richness matches with a silver bead of acidity here. This is armed with immense purity on the finish that effortlessly manages the 150g/L residual sugar. Supremely gifted Suduiraut, ahoy. 96-98 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The purity of the botrytis grabs your attention, with density and intensity to the dried fruit, sweetness and length. Very spicy and long. Almost oily. Really rich. 150g/L residual sugar. 100% semillon. 97-98 points" jamessuckling.com------"Killer juice, the 2023 Château Suduiraut has a drop-dead gorgeous nose of honeyed orange, white flowers, warm croissant, and spice. This carries to a full-bodied Sauternes with a round, layered mouthfeel, terrific sweetness of fruit, and bright acidity. 96-99 points" Jebdunnuck.com------"The 2023 Suduiraut (100% Sémillon) is a real stunner. Light on its feet yet wonderfully deep, the 2023 offers up a heady mix of tangerine oil, mint, white flowers, apricot and passion fruit. Readers will find a Sauternes that is more finesse than power. The 2023 is essentially a blend of three picks. The first was done at the end of September and accounted for 20% of the crop. The core of the vineyard, about 75%, was picked in a day ten window in October, following the September rains. A smaller third pick rounded out the harvest. 2026 - 2043 98-100 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Château Suduiraut | Half bottle | £275 per case of 12 | Château Suduiraut 2023 / / Half bottle £275 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Suduiraut is pure Sémillon that was picked from the end of September with more passerillage berries. After the rain, the first botrytis picking began on October 1 and lasted over the next 12 days, when botrytization was rapid. Seventy percent of the crop was picked on this date, which was essential for maintaining purity of fruit. The harvest concluded on October 17 after three tries through the vineyard. Matured in 50% new oak, it has a lovely, beguiling bouquet with dried honey, quince, almond and saffron aromas that are beautifully defined. The palate is well balanced with a spicy, tensile opening. Very impressive richness matches with a silver bead of acidity here. This is armed with immense purity on the finish that effortlessly manages the 150g/L residual sugar. Supremely gifted Suduiraut, ahoy. 96-98 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The purity of the botrytis grabs your attention, with density and intensity to the dried fruit, sweetness and length. Very spicy and long. Almost oily. Really rich. 150g/L residual sugar. 100% semillon. 97-98 points" jamessuckling.com------"Killer juice, the 2023 Château Suduiraut has a drop-dead gorgeous nose of honeyed orange, white flowers, warm croissant, and spice. This carries to a full-bodied Sauternes with a round, layered mouthfeel, terrific sweetness of fruit, and bright acidity. 96-99 points" Jebdunnuck.com------"The 2023 Suduiraut (100% Sémillon) is a real stunner. Light on its feet yet wonderfully deep, the 2023 offers up a heady mix of tangerine oil, mint, white flowers, apricot and passion fruit. Readers will find a Sauternes that is more finesse than power. The 2023 is essentially a blend of three picks. The first was done at the end of September and accounted for 20% of the crop. The core of the vineyard, about 75%, was picked in a day ten window in October, following the September rains. A smaller third pick rounded out the harvest. 2026 - 2043 98-100 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Talbot | 75cl | £462 per case of 12 | Château Talbot 2023 / / 75cl £462 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Talbot contains the highest proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon to date, at 77%. It was picked from September 13 to October 6 at 54hL/ha according to winemaker Jean-Michel Laporte. Matured in 60% new oak, this has a fragrant bouquet that, like one or two fellow Saint-Julien wines, discretely unfolds in the glass. Quite precise with blackberry, cedar and light pencil box scents, there is a Pauillac-like tincture here. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled, grainy tannins. It’s overtly classic in style, albeit with more mid-weight depth compared to some vintages of Talbot. Displaying fine cohesion and sapidity, this fans out on the finish, with a deft touch of white pepper livening things up. This is a very promising Talbot, and I may actually prefer it to the previous vintage. 91-93 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Offering up aromas of dark berries, baking chocolate, plums, espresso roast and crushed mint, the 2023 Talbot is medium to full-bodied, deep and fleshy, with a rich but lively core of fruit, powdery tannins and a long, penetrating finish. Harvested over the course of fully four weeks, it's a blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot that attained 13% alcohol. 92-94 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"A medium- to full-bodied red with very fine tannins. It’s firm and structured, showing a bright, dark-fruited character. Focused, with a good center-palate and a lingering finish. Really polished. 94-95 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Tronquoy | 75cl | £198 per case of 12 | Château Tronquoy 2023 / / 75cl £198 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Tronquoy is quite elegant in this vintage. Crushed flowers, mint, dried herbs, tobacco and cedar lend lovely aromatic complexity. There's more Petit Verdot in this year's blend, which comes through in the wine's aromatic presence, and also less Merlot, which is noticeable in the mouthfeel. It's a style I like a lot—more Saint-Estèphe and less of the rusticity that marked some years. This is a very pretty and promising Tronquoy, not to mention one of the most finessed vintages of this wine I can remember tasting. 2027-2038. 91-93 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"Containing an unusually high 51% Cabernet Sauvignon this year (complemented by 38% Merlot and 11% Petit Verdot), the 2023 Tronquoy offers up aromas of dark berries, cherries, burning embers and violets, followed by a medium to full-bodied, velvety and refined palate with good depth at the core, lively acids and a persistent finish. Foudres are now complemented barriques for élevage. 91-93 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"Medium to full intensity ruby plum colour, higher Petit Verdot than usual in the blend, and it comes through in sappy, lively black pepper spice and dark fruit character, good quality, a little austere. In organic conversion, to be certified 2024. Harvest September 6 to 26. 93 points" janeanson.com------"A crunchy and velvety Tronquoy with blackberry, blackcurrant and chocolate aromas. Lots of blackcurrant, berry and cherry character on the medium-bodied palate, with solid tannins that have a powdery texture. 51% cabernet sauvignon, 38% merlot and 11% petit verdot. 92-94 points" jamessuckling.com------"The 2023 Château Tronquoy is based on 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot that will see 12 months in one-third new barrels, with a touch in foudre. Ripe red plums, blueberries, spring flowers, espresso, and liquid violets all define the aromatics, and it's medium to full-bodied, with a round, layered mouthfeel, beautiful tannins, and outstanding length. 92-94 points" Jebdunnuck.com------"The 2023 Tronquoy-Lalande was picked September 6 to 26 and contains more Petit Verdot in the blend this year. It matured in one-third new oak plus some newly-introduced foudres and amphorae. Blackberry and bilberry fruit surface the nose, plus a fresh punnet of strawberries. This is quite delightful and full of character. The palate is underpinned by fine acidity. Fresh and quite marine-influenced, this has a silky texture on the finish that lingers in the mouth, representing another superb Tronquoy from a rejuvenated estate. 93-95 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Château Troplong Mondot | 75cl | £534 per case of 12 | Château Troplong Mondot 2023 / / 75cl £534 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"A blend of 84% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc, the 2023 Troplong Mondot unwinds in the glass with aroma of black raspberries, mulberries and cherries mingled with notions of iris, licorice, black tea and spices. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it's textural and mouthfilling, with the mid-palate density so typical of this terroir, its concentrated core of fruit framed by beautifully polished tannins and succulent acids. 95-97 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"The 2023 Troplong Mondot was harvested from September 5 to October 9, with 60-70% picked within nine or ten days; other parcels were "stragglers" that required more time. There is actually 4-5% whole clusters in the blend,and according to Aymeric de Gironde, it works like the vin de presse, glueing components of the wine together. Sulfur is only added when the wine is put into barrel. The 2023 has a very well-defined and focused bouquet with pure blackberry, raspberry, ground chalk and light sea cave scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a very crisp and mineral-driven entry. It's chalky in texture and quite tensile in the mouth, with a dash of black pepper on the finish. This is an individualistic Saint-Émilion that will fill out during its élevage. Very long. 95-97 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"A tight and very focused young Troplong with freshness and finesse that adds plenty. Medium to full body, ultra-fine tannins and a vivid finish. Lots of blackberry and blueberry character. It really opens and envelops your palate, caressing every square inch. Cashmere-like texture. The limestone comes through beautifully. 97-98 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Clos du Marquis | 75cl | £462 per case of 12 | Clos du Marquis 2023 / / 75cl £462 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Clos du Marquis is a rather serious, structured wine, evocative of cherries, dark berries and kirsch, framed by a touch of creamy new oak. Medium to full-bodied and fleshy but structured, it's a taut, concentrated wine that will reward some patience. 91-93 points" William Kelley, RobertParker.com------"The 2023 Clos du Marquis was picked from September 6 to October 5 at 44hL/ha and matured in 50% new oak. It has a complex bouquet, comprising a mélange of red and black fruit, cedar and subtle touches of violet-very charming. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grip. It's a little creamy in texture on the entry, but there is solid backbone and a saline finish. This is very promising. 91-93 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Squid ink, cassis, bilberry, roses, love the intensity and gorgeous salinity of this wine. Captures the sense of energy and florality in the best Cabernets of 2023, although retains the austerity that you expect from this site in its early years. First vintage in the new cellars, moving from 40 vats to 80 vats, with 30 microvinification vats. Harvest September 6 to October 5, 50% new oak for ageing, 44hl/h yields. 94 points" janeanson.com------"This offers beautiful blackcurrants and blackberries with hints of chocolate and walnuts. Medium- to full-bodied with vivid acidity that adds tension and freshness to the mid-palate. It’s full of life and vibrancy, very fine and polished, and with nicely integrated tannins. Long finish. 56% cabernet sauvignon, 35% merlot and 9% cabernet franc. What will be better between 2022 and 2023? 95-96 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Domaine de Chevalier | 75cl | £275 per case of 6 | Domaine de Chevalier 2023 / / 75cl £275 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Always one of the benchmark wines of a vintage, and here showcasing the quality of Cabernet Sauvignon in 2023 (as well as the potential for varying yields, as they are down at 30hl/h here). Well balanced, great depth of ink, cassis, bilberry and damson fruits, rises through the palate, with tannic grip and plenty of grilled but carefully judged oak. A great Chevalier, not perhaps at the very top of recent vintages here, but one that will give huge amounts of pleasure, and captures the great classicsm of the year. 35% new oak for ageing, Bernard family owners. 95 points" janeanson.com------"The 2023 Domaine de Chevalier was picked from September 7 to 30 and contains 13% alcohol. This is quintessential "DdC" on the nose: black fruit, sous-bois and hints of black olive at first, subtle marine notes emerging with time in the glass. There’s wonderful focus and delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with pencil-shaving-tinged black fruit on the entry. Perhaps a bit grippier with more spine than one would expect (especially following the more sensual 2022), this is very traditional in style, with a tremendously long and satisfying saline finish. Superb. 94-96 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"The 2023 Domaine de Chevalier reveals a perfumed, incipiently complex bouquet of dark wild berries, cassis, rose petals, spices and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated and rich, with a fleshy core of fruit framed by powdery tannins and bright acids, it concludes with a long, saline, gently oak-inflected finish. This blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc is maturing in 40% new barrels. 94-96 points" Yohan Castaing, RobertParker.com------"Plenty of blackberry, blackcurrant, chocolate and flint aromas that follow through to a full body, yet it’s in check and focused with a beautiful framing of fine tannins. The purity of ripe fruit is impressive with cabernet really showing through. 63% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 5% petit verdot and 2% cabernet franc. 97-98 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Domaine de Chevalier Blanc | 75cl | £455 per case of 6 | Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 2023 / / 75cl £455 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc was picked from August 28 to September 6 at 45hL/ha. It’s a blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Sémillon. This has wonderful purity on the nose, revealing scents of lime, green apple and crushed stone—one of the most precise I have encountered at this early stage. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity that lends this white Pessac-Léognan superb focus. There’s real intensity here, building with a sense of nascent confidence toward the mineral, almost slate-like finish. Very long and tender, this is a white Domaine de Chevalier from the top drawer. 94-96 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Got to be the most consisent of all Pessac Léognan whites, sets out its stall immediately with fresh acidities and fennel spice, giving a kick and lift, classically nuanced and structured. White pear, sage, liqourice root, savoury as all hell, and so moriesh. Working with Stéphane Derenocourt since 2018 on the whites (longer on the reds). 96 points" janeanson.com------"This is layered and complex with an impressive mineral tension and depth. Medium- to full-bodied, very long and persistent. It has oyster shell, crushed stone and citrus peel character with racy acidity coming through, adding to its length and tension. Very long and firm at the end with a backbone of fine tannins for a white. 70% sauvignon blanc and 30% semillon. 97-98 points" jamessuckling.com |
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| RED | 2023 | La Croix Ducru Beaucaillou | 75cl | £364 per case of 12 | La Croix Ducru Beaucaillou 2023 / / 75cl £364 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 La Croix Ducru-Beaucaillou marries sophistication with the textural richness that is such a signature here. All the elements are so well balanced. Jammy dark red fruit, pomegranate, blood orange, spice and mocha infuse the 2023 with tons of nuance. Supple tannins wrap it all together. This Saint-Julien screams with character. 90-92 points" Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com------"The 2023 La Croix Ducru-Beaucaillou has a very perfumed and floral bouquet: plush red berry fruit, vanilla, cedar and blood orange, well-defined with deftly integrated new oak (60%). The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins that lend this La Croix a bit more backbone than recent vintages. It's very fresh; white pepper and thyme complement the bright red fruit, leading to an overtly peppery finish, with a touch of graphite on the aftertaste. 91-93 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com ------"The true second wine of this great château, the 2023 La Croix Ducru-Beaucaillou is 58% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Petit Verdot, resting in a mix of mostly once-used oak. It has a more Cabernet nose of ripe red, blue, and black fruits as well as subtle tobacco, iron, sappy flowers, and graphite notes. Medium-bodied, balanced, and elegant on the palate, it has fine tannins and a great finish. It shines for its overall balance as well as purity. This beauty hit 13.5% alcohol, with a pH of 3.71 and a massive IPT of 91. 91-93 points" Jebdunnuck.com------"The purity of fruit is so beautiful here with blackcurrants and violets, as well as freshly shaved lead pencil. It’s medium-bodied with refined tannins that are wonderfully polished and give plenty of texture. Goes on for minutes. Second wine of Ducru. 58% merlot, 40% cabernet sauvignon and 2% petit verdot. 94-95 points" jamessuckling.com |
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