Burgundy 2023 En Primeur
Burgundy 2023 En Primeur
"I am hard pushed to think of another vintage so pleasurable from barrel—pleasure that its best growers will translate into bottle." Neal Martin, Vinous, Jan '25
In late November we made our annual pilgrimage to Burgundy, to taste the 2023 vintage from barrel. The wines were a wonderful surprise, far higher in quality and exciting to taste than we had anticipated. The white wines are ripe but beautifully fresh, slightly less concentrated than the '22s, but with more texture and balance. The reds are delightful to taste, with exceptionally supple tannins, immediate but also age-worthy. Best of all, both reds and whites were especially representative of their terroirs this year, something you don't see so readily in hotter years.
2023 also produced a good-sized harvest, similar to 2022. With the 2024 harvest drastically reduced in size, this year's en primeur campaign represents an excellent opportunity to secure stocks of your favourite wines.
Fresh and supple are the bywords for the 2023 vintage
The 2023 growing season was unusual in recent times, in so far as there were no extreme weather events! Spring frosts were largely avoided, mildew pressure was moderated by airflow and not an issue for most, and temperatures, although warm, did not see the heat spikes that characterised 2022. The conditions were so favourable that many producers carried out a green harvest, reducing the volume of the crop by removing a proportion of unripe fruit from the vines.
The autumn ripening period saw some beautiful weather, but although temperatures were in the mid-30s by day, by night they cooled significantly. Most producers harvested in the first 2-3 weeks of September. Rain in the Côte de Nuits around 16-18 September was a key decision point, with some growers opting to delay harvesting until after the rains had passed.
The white wines
For us, the white wines were consistent in offering beautifully ripe fruit, with an attractive texture. In hotter years such as 2020 and '22 the texture can come from glycerin, but not so in this new vintage. The warm autumn meant that growers picked early, to preserve ripeness, leaving plenty of malic acid to be converted in lactic acid during the malo-lactic fermentation, giving a supple, sometimes creamy texture. The perception of alcohol on the palate is also notably low, giving the white wines a weightless quality. At least one grower compared the '23 white wines to the superb 2017s, but with more fruit concentration. The distinct terroirs of each vineyard were beautifully delineated, particularly in Puligny-Montrachet.
The red wines
The reds were among the most immediate and approachable we have tasted from barrel, even at the level of the grands crus. The fruit concentration may be a notch lower than in the 22s, but we found more red fruit character, more acidity, more balance, and more precise expression of terroirs. Tasting at domaines like Joseph Voillot and Hudelot-Baillet in Chambolle, the wines were generous but with nothing excessive about them. The acidity and tannins will ensure they age beautifully.
The case for 2023 Burgundy
2022 and 2023 are both beautiful and plentiful vintages, bookended by 2021 and 2024, which were severely reduced in quantity. The very best wines (at every price level) will most likely sell out this year. Whilst the market for the top ten domaines (DRC et al) has been over-heated and seen prices falling, this does not apply to the more modest domaines that are the focus of our offer. Wines like those from Michelot in Meursault and the Santenays from Borgeot and Bachey-Legros are extraordinarily good value, in their context.
Expressions of interest
We will be offering the 2023 wines between now and January, as our allocations are confirmed. You will find all of the releases on our Burgundy 2023 homepage.
We hope to offer wines from the following, subject to availability:
Drouhin-Laroze, Rossignol-Trapet, Hudelot-Baillet, Joseph Voillot, Domaines Michelot, Antoine Jobard, Jean Pascal, Borgeot, Bachey-Legros, Jeannin-Naltet, Jean Collet, Château des Jacques, JA Ferret and more!
We welcome advanced expressions of interest, do please email us.
Offered en primeur. White wines expected in spring 2025, and red wines in autumn 2025.
| RED | 2023 | Domaine des Lambrays - Clos des Lambrays grand cru | 75cl | £1,320 per case of 3 | Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays grand cru 2023 / / 75cl £1,320 per case of 3 |
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Tasting Notes"Mid ruby. Intense, complex nose of red and black fruits with woodsmoke. Concentrated and intense fruit, with at present quite a pronounced structure of powerful tannins with good acidity. On the palate more flowers, herbs and spice. As deep as it is broad and, although imposing, neither hard nor overbearing. There’s great balance, real luxury and undoubted promise. It is, alas, not cheap. 18+ points" jancisrobinson.com (MH)------"This is the most floral-suffused nose in the range with its range of lilac, violet and rose petal nuances that add elegance to the black cherry liqueur scents. The middle weight flavors are not quite as dense but they are more mineral-driven and more powerful on the moderately austere, dusty and impressively long finale. This is clearly built-to-age but it's not so compact that it couldn't reasonably be enjoyed after 7 to 8 years. 92-95 points" Allen Meadows' Burghound------"The 11 plots were made separately and reunited just before the bottling. The terroir delimited in 1365 rests whole, with nothing declassified. Intense black purple with some glycerol legs. Sweetly dark fruit with the whole bunches hidden. A multitude of different red fruit notes speed across the palate and then the stems do show a little, gracefully, at the finish, along with some oak. As with La Richemone one can see that this vintage is not as concentrated as the previous one, but the wine has been beautifully made with rare distinction. Fine tannins to finish. Drink from 2033-2045. 95-98 points" Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com------"Eleven different cuvées combine to form the 2023 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, with every square meter contributing to the blend, to quote Jacques Devauges verbatim (as an aside, this is the same philosophy at Cheval Blanc, which is also on LVMH's mantelpiece). This vintage includes 80% whole bunch and was raised in 60% new oak. The bouquet is very expressive with ebullient red berry fruit, tobacco, forest floor and subtle aromas of ceps. The palate is medium-bodied with fine yet firm tannins that lend backbone and gentle grip. This fans out with style on the sapid finish with a liberal sprinkling of black pepper. The 2023 ranks alongside the 2022 and may even surpass it. Prices have skyrocketed in recent years and priced out many Lambrays-lovers, but one cannot deny the quality. 96-98 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Domaine des Lambrays - Morey St Denis | 75cl | £450 per case of 6 | Domaine des Lambrays Morey St Denis 2023 / / 75cl £450 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Bright mid crimson. Nose a melange of red and black fruit. Fresh acidity. Soft but structured tannins. Spicy, peppery finish. (MH) 16.5 points" jancisrobinson.com (MH)------" A very pinot-like nose blends notes of both red and blue fruit along with subtle hints of earth and oak. The exceptionally rich, seductive and caressing middle weight flavors terminate in a refreshing, pliant and satisfying finish. To enjoy either young or with 4 to 7 years of keeping. 89-91 points" Allen Meadows' Burghound------"From En La Rue de Vergy and Les Larrets, next door, last picked in this cooler site. The crimson side of purple. As always this has a slightly more sober bouquet than the rest of the range, not having any whole bunches. A dark fruit, a little orange zest, a hillside limestone underlay, fair length, well put together. Drink from 2028-2033. 89-90 points" Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com------"The 2023 Morey-Saint-Denis Village comes from the upper part of the slope on limestone soils. Slightly tertiary on the nose, this has well-defined red berry fruit with a hint of crushed violet emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied, open-knit and expressive. Grainy tannins build toward the finish that is very elegant and poised. This will be hard to resist in its youth, so why bother? 89-91 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Domaine des Lambrays - Morey St Denis Clos Sorbé 1er Cru | 75cl | £840 per case of 6 | Domaine des Lambrays Morey St Denis Clos Sorbé 1er Cru 2023 / / 75cl £840 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Mid ruby. Dark red and black fruit, raspberry, mulberry and cassis. Quite butch and firm on the palate, muscular and rounded. Balanced acidity and fruit and currently a firm finish. 17 points" jancisrobinson.com (MH)------"This is aromatically bright, more elegant and just a bit fresher as well with its anise-tinged nose of dark berries, kirsch and violet. There is again good vibrancy and a sleek mouthfeel to the generous and succulent middle weight flavors that conclude in a firm, balanced and lingering finale. Clos Sorbé is almost always a wine of finesse and this fits that mold. 91-93 points" Allen Meadows' Burghound------"Clos Sorbè has a red soil in contrast to the brown earth of Clos Baulet. A dark crimson purple. Dark fruit in volume, concentrated, more tannins as well, a touch of iron in there, “tobacco and spices” offers Jacques. It is a bulkier style of wine all round, thus hiding the whole bunch more. Needs more elevage. Drink from 2030-2037. 92-94 points" Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com------"The 2023 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos Sorbet ler Cru contains 50% whole bunch, which is much more integrated on the nose. Beautiful brambly red fruit, crushed stone and hints of freshly rolled tobacco come through with time. Very finessed and mineral-driven, the palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, gradually building to a poised and persistent finish. This may eventually surpass the 2022. 92-94 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly Fuissé | 75cl | £165 per case of 6 | Domaine J.A. Ferret Pouilly Fuissé 2023 / / 75cl £165 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"This wine starts life in a mix of tank and barrel. The tank component, which includes the vines on schistous soils in one part of Fuissé, shows some green tints to the colour, with an attractive fruit both lively and juicy. There is a definite bitterness. Still, youthful promise. The barrel component, from clay-limestone soils includes some 1er Cru grapes as a counterpoint to the schist, and a bit of fruit from Vergisson. Pale lemon in colour without the green, a slightly richer and softer nose, more evidently Pouilly-Fuissé. Fresh plum fruit, balanced and delicious. My assessment may be over cautious. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Apr 2024. 89-90 points." Jasper Morris MW |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly-Fuissé "Autour de la Roche" | 75cl | £165 per case of 6 | Domaine J.A. Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé "Autour de la Roche" 2023 / / 75cl £165 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Autour de la Roche', formerly known as 'Sous Vergisson' is a blend of grapes grown in the best terroirs located around the Vergisson outcrop. The average age of the vines that go into cuvee is around 40 years. As is typical in Fuissé, the geology is diverse, with some stony soils but, in the main, soils derived from Triassic sandstones and clay, as well as shallower soils based on hard limestones with marine fossils. " J.A. Ferret |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly-Fuissé "Clos des Prouges" Tête de Cru | 75cl | £240 per case of 6 | Domaine J.A. Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé "Clos des Prouges" Tête de Cru 2023 / / 75cl £240 per case of 6 |
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Tasting NotesSituated right in the centre of the village of Fuissé, this Clos is just over two "hectares" in size and is planted on a shallow slope that faces east. Although a small parcel of vines was planted in 2003, most of the vineyard dates back to 1956, and is therefore more than 60 years old, making it one of the oldest owned by the domaine. The soil is derived from limestone-rich marls deposited during the upper Bathonian. The 2023 has an intense, fine backbone of acidity, spice, pear and lime-fruit freshness running through it, with excellent minerality providing length on the finish. RKL |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly-Fuissé "Le Clos de Jeanne" 1er Cru | 75cl | £240 per case of 6 | Domaine J.A. Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé "Le Clos de Jeanne" 1er Cru 2023 / / 75cl £240 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Formerly known as Le Clos. A lime green touch, with a subtly perfumed bouquet. A mix of fresh plum fruit with some more austere notes, extra length. At the moment less flesh than the 2022 though this may change with, longer elevage. A fine and balanced persistent finish. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Apr 2024. 90-92 points." Jasper Morris MW |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Domaine J.A. Ferret - Pouilly-Fuissé "Tournant de Pouilly" 1er Cru | 75cl | £340 per case of 6 | Domaine J.A. Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé "Tournant de Pouilly" 1er Cru 2023 / / 75cl £340 per case of 6 |
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Tasting NotesBased in the northern part of Fuissé, just on the borders of the hamlet of Pouilly, the Tournant de Pouilly is a vineyard of one hectare in area, split between two parcels, planted on a gentle slope that faces north-east. This historic vineyard is a part of 1er Cru "Les Reisses". Planted by Jean-Alfred Ferret in 1995, 1963 and 1964, the vines from this parcel are, on average, a little bit older than 60 years old, one of the oldest vineyards owned by the Domaine.------This deep clay loam soil contains lots of limestone, but little in the way of stones. It is derived from the pale loams of the Dogger. Fermentations and ageing take place in casks: 25% of new cask, 75% of cask from 1 to 3 wines for 10 months. The ageing continued in stainless steel tanks, always with all their lees for another 9 months. Bottled just like the Ménétrières, at the very last days of March 2022. Always a bit austere and shy at first glance, it is undoubtedly the most "chic" of the selections with its chalky touch and its fresh and persistent finish." J.A. Ferret------This has the beautiful texture on the palate that seems to characterise the '23s, not the rich glycerin kind as seen in the '22s, but a more elegant, silkiness. It balances richness with a chalky minerality and the longest finish of this flight of wines. RKL |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Domaine Michelot - Bourgogne Cote d'Or Chardonnay | 75cl | £220 per case of 12 | Domaine Michelot Bourgogne Cote d'Or Chardonnay 2023 / / 75cl £220 per case of 12 |
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Tasting Notes"All in 500 litre barrels, not new. Elegant and stylish. Then also a bit more weight on the palate but this comes into the joyfully exuberant category. Decent length and good acid balance. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted Oct 2024. 87-88 points" Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Domaine Michelot - Meursault Genevrières 1er cru | 75cl | £480 per case of 6 | Domaine Michelot Meursault Genevrières 1er cru 2023 / / 75cl £480 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Slightly yellower in colour, with rather less nose at the moment. Was reduced last month says Nicolas, and has gone quiet for now. Much more interesting in the mouth, with a bench of white fruit and a few stones dotting the finish. Like the Charmes, the persistence is pleasing. This is slightly fuller bodied. Nose starts to emerge, just very backward. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Oct 2024. 93-95 points" Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Domaine Michelot - Meursault Les Charmes 1er cru | 75cl | £460 per case of 6 | Domaine Michelot Meursault Les Charmes 1er cru 2023 / / 75cl £460 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Pale lemon yellow. This wine does show an element of reduction, but in the gunflint style rather than vegetal. Quite subtle behind. A long finish with good acidity, fresh plum fruit, not too heavy, notable most of all for its persistence. Mixed ages with an average of around 45 years. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Oct 2024. 92-95 points" Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Domaine Michelot - Meursault Les Grands Charrons | 75cl | £320 per case of 6 | Domaine Michelot Meursault Les Grands Charrons 2023 / / 75cl £320 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Clear pale lemon yellow. Still a little reserved but there is a clear sign of quality here, with the stony side of Meursault, plus a little citrus. A lovely dimension on the palate, with ripe apple, before a fine long finish. Not a rounded Meursault but a fine one. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Oct 2024. 90-92 points" Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Domaine Michelot - Meursault Village | 75cl | £240 per case of 6 | Domaine Michelot Meursault Village 2023 / / 75cl £240 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"75% wood and 25% in various types of neutral container. Pale lemon. A fine and classy nose with no wood in evidence, more of a mineral character, but no dominating reduction, just a whisper to add complexity. Behind you can see the rounder fruit of Meursault. Really lovely in the mouth with just a trace of barrel toast at the back. Otherwise, orchard fruit with the sweeter edge of adequate ripeness. Drink from 2027-2030. Tasted Oct 2024. 90-93 points" Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Domaine Michelot - Santenay Blanc Les Gravières 1er cru | 75cl | £225 per case of 6 | Domaine Michelot Santenay Blanc Les Gravières 1er cru 2023 / / 75cl £225 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Mid lemon yellow. Quite a robust white fruit on the nose, verging on the more exotic but well in balance. Significant volume of fruit in the mouth, backed by good acidity. This is robust and healthy and a fine example. He has backed off the oak here – doesn’t need it. Drink from 2028-2033. Tasted Oct 2024. 91-93 points" Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Etienne Sauzet - Puligny Montrachet | 75cl | £315 per case of 6 | Etienne Sauzet Puligny Montrachet 2023 / / 75cl £315 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"A pale lemon and lime. Super clear. The bouquet needs a little coaxing, with a citrus touch, exceptionally precise and refined, like the Chassagne shows its class and style much more on the palate. Middleweight, very persistent. I can see how this would grow as you work your way down the bottle. Drink from 2027-2030. 90-92 points" Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Etienne Sauzet - Puligny Montrachet La Garenne 1er Cru | 75cl | £525 per case of 6 | Etienne Sauzet Puligny Montrachet La Garenne 1er Cru 2023 / / 75cl £525 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"Mid lemon yellow. The Garenne seems riper and softer than the previous wines, with some yellow plums, but still the delicacy of all the Sauzet wines this year, and with an agreeable, almost floral, long finish. Ripe citrus zest on the nose. The Sauzet team work the vines and buy the grapes. Drink from 2027-2031. 90-93 points" Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com |
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| WHITE | 2023 | Etienne Sauzet - Puligny Montrachet Les Referts 1er Cru | 75cl | £300 per case of 3 | Etienne Sauzet Puligny Montrachet Les Referts 1er Cru 2023 / / 75cl £300 per case of 3 |
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Tasting Notes"A slighter fuller lemon and lime colour. The bouquet suggests greater density of fruit. A light lick of oak which suits the more clay-based wines. Excellent energy, the oak backing up the fresh vigour of the fruit, and a well-balanced finish. Not the ripest, but quite powerful. Drink from 2028-2035. 92-95 points" Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Henri Gouges - Nuits St Georges | 75cl | £237 per case of 6 | Henri Gouges Nuits St Georges 2023 / / 75cl £237 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Nuits Saint-Georges Village, matured in 15% new oak, takes a little while to settle in the glass, revealing quite plush red fruit, touches of brown spice and dark chocolate. The palate is quite tannic on the entry, then settles down to a more harmonious mid-palate. Hints of salted licorice and tobacco emerge toward the slightly dry finish. 87points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com ------"Bright mid purple. A heady ripe nose, tastes like a sunnier year despite not picking late and keeping a sensible degree. Plenty of energy on the palate, fresh plums and vivid dark raspberries, with good length. Bottled in September. Drink from 2028-2033. 91 points" Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Henri Gouges - Nuits St Georges Clos des Porrets-St-Georges 1er cru | 75cl | £288 per case of 6 | Henri Gouges Nuits St Georges Clos des Porrets-St-Georges 1er cru 2023 / / 75cl £288 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos des Porrets-Saint-Georges ler Cru was taken from the tank. This is opulent on the nose, but there is a sense of control and delineation here. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe black fruit notes, touches of blueberry and raspberry coulis and just a hint of licorice toward the finish. Give this three or four years in bottle. 91-93 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Racked to tank in October, to bottle in December. Deep purple. The bouquet is certainly a rich expression of pinot fruit without being over-ripe. Very full on the palate yet with energy through adequate acidity. Excellent balance and persistence. A fresh classic. Drink from 2030-2037. 92-94 points" Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com |
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| RED | 2023 | Henri Gouges - Nuits St Georges Les Chaignots 1er Cru | 75cl | £330 per case of 6 | Henri Gouges Nuits St Georges Les Chaignots 1er Cru 2023 / / 75cl £330 per case of 6 |
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Tasting Notes"The 2023 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Chaignots ler Cru has a lifted, perfumed nase with redcurrant, wild strawberry and light sous bois scents. It is far superior to the Les Chênes Carteaux. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, crisp red berry fruit laced with orange rind and a touch of black pepper. Harmonious on the finish, this is a competent Les Chaignots. 91 points" Neal Martin, Vinous.com------"Bottled in July. A bright ruby purple. The bouquet has a fine ripeness to the fruit, less heady than Chaines Carteaux. From a bright fresh red fruit at the front of the palate to something a little richer and darker behind, along with a peppery finish. Fine length, this is accessible but should also age quite well. Drink from 2029-2034. 93 points" Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com |
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